BLOG 15: By Boat to Corcovado National Park

Today we’re heading to Corcovado National Park. Due to its remoteness, the rainforest remained untouched by humans until the 1960s. However, a few years later, a gold discovery led several hundred gold seekers to invade the forest. Their activities caused rivers to become silted and the forest to be damaged. The national park was established in 1975, but it wasn't until 1986 that the gold seekers were finally expelled from the region by the government.

We have to get up early – we need to register at the tour operator in Uvita by 06:45. Luckily, our lodge provides us with a breakfast package that we can eat while we prepare at the operator’s.

There are a few regulations for Corcovado National Park: you cannot bring plastic bottles and must wear “closed shoes with good grip” in the national park. The shoe requirement is somewhat impractical since you have to board boats through the water; there are no docks. Thus, shorts and water shoes are also recommended. Equipped with life vests, we walk a short distance through the town to the sandy beach, where we board our rather wildly rocking boat. Soon, we’re speeding over waves towards the San Pedrillo ranger station – the ride takes about an hour and a half. Upon arrival, we wade through the water – thankfully pleasantly warm – and across the sand to the ranger checkpoint, where our identification, footwear, and backpacks are checked.

Then we head out on the trail – initially in the direction where the guide saw tapirs yesterday and a puma a few days ago. As feared, we are here on the “wrong” day, but we do see tapir tracks and some fairly fresh scratch marks on a tree that the puma used to mark its territory. Nevertheless, it’s a bit disappointing…

Our guide also tells us that for some months now, the guides have been prohibited from leaving the trails in search of animal sightings – he was recently caught doing so by a ranger and only given a warning; a second incident would result in him being banned as a guide for the national park for several weeks. These rather strict measures became necessary because the significant increase in visitor numbers disturbed the animals too much. Unfortunately, in his experience, this has resulted in a drastic reduction in the number of animal sightings for visitors.

We turn back, and past the ranger station, we first cross a small stream – off with the hiking shoes – put the hiking shoes back on – along a longer detour. The hike through the lush rainforest has its charm, and we do get to see some animals, or at least hear them in the case of the howler monkeys.

Back at the ranger station, there's a simple but good lunch – we stay at the beach and relax in the shade a bit. Some participants head out for a short hike but also don’t get to see any tapirs or pumas.

Then it’s time to wade through the water again and wait for the right moment to start boarding, and soon we’re heading back to Uvita.