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Cusco

Pubblicato: 18.12.2024

It's clear that every country I've traveled to has culinary highlights to offer, but regarding this theme, Peru is undoubtedly next level. The incredible variety of previously unknown dishes is truly impressive. Every day, I have been indulging in some restaurant here, and it has always been excellent. I particularly enjoyed Lomo Saltado, a kind of beef stir-fry cooked with soy sauce, tomatoes, onions, and chilies and served with rice. An absolute delight, and if you move a little away from the tourist hotspots, you can also get this in Cusco for a very low price. Other highlights of Peruvian cuisine include Aji de Galina (a creamy chicken dish), Rocoto Relleno (stuffed spicy peppers – extremely delicious!), Anticuchos (grilled meat skewers from beef heart), alpaca or llama meat, and the especially popular Cuy (guinea pig) in Cusco and Arequipa – but more on that later.</p><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>Speaking of tourist hotspots: when you arrive in Cusco from Bolivia, you have to get used to it first. Cusco is completely overloaded with tourists from all over the world. Here, for the first time in ages, you hear people speaking German again, and it seems like every bar and every restaurant is full of Europeans. But it’s no wonder, as the main attraction in South America, Machu Picchu, is practically just around the corner and about 80% of all tourists coming to Peru fly directly from Lima to Cusco to make their way to this site. In principle, the influx of tourists is still within manageable limits; however, it is definitely a stark contrast to Bolivia.</p><figure><img src='https://img1.vakantio.de/uploads/9e7d09f1745f7b06de5cdd8883ea646c_large.jpg' alt='Procession at Plaza Mayor' /><figcaption>Procession at Plaza Mayor</figcaption></figure><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>After spending the first day in a jazz bar with live music and plenty of Pisco Sour, I set out in the following days to explore the cultural sites and landmarks more closely. Notably, the many Inca walls in the city center stand out. This impressive testimony to Inca architecture gives the old town its special historical character. The walls often line particularly narrow streets and consist of massive stone blocks that fit together perfectly without the use of mortar. This technique is known as ashlar masonry and is known for its earthquake resistance. Even in ancient times, this was an absolute necessity in this seismically active region. On Hatun Rumiyoc Street, there is a particularly famous section of this wall and the so-called stone of the 12 angles. The stone (integrated into the wall of a former Inca palace) is cut so precisely that it fits seamlessly with its 12 angles and edges into the adjacent stones, without even a gap or larger joint. Considering that the Incas did not have iron tools to work with the stones, standing in front of it, one wonders how it was possible to work the heavy and hard rock so precisely without this tool. Absolutely fascinating and still to this day an unresolved mystery for science. The Inca walls are still almost completely intact and well-preserved throughout the city. While the regular earthquakes have destroyed many of the later built buildings, these centuries-old walls remain in their original condition and form the foundations of the colonial buildings that the Spaniards erected after their conquest. Overall, the old town of Cusco is a fascinating testament to the fusion of Inca architecture and Spanish colonial construction, which continues to impressively shape the cityscape. Fairly, one must add that the cityscape would likely be considerably more impressive had the Spaniards not carried out their incredible devastation here in their plundering and destructive frenzy. Many Inca buildings in Cusco were dismantled by the Spaniards, especially religious and cultural centers of the Incas, to establish their own culture and rule. Instead of the temples, the Spaniards built monasteries and Catholic churches, for the most part on the fundamental walls of the Incas. This deliberate reconstruction was part of the Spaniards' strategy to suppress indigenous culture and demonstrate the power of their own empire. The impressive Plaza de Armas must have been even more imposing during Inca times. It is reported that all the buildings at that time were adorned with fittings and decorations made of pure gold, and the entire square was surrounded by a gold cord thick as an arm. Naturally, none of this can be found in its original form anymore, yet everything that stands here in terms of buildings is absolutely fascinating and unique in its form and significance. If you continue up the narrow streets in the north of the old town, you will have a wonderful view over the historic center from one of the viewpoints, gaining a more comprehensive understanding of the extent to which the historic buildings stretch while seeing how the city edges gradually consume the surrounding hills.</p><figure><img src='https://img1.vakantio.de/uploads/d6ba0cf4927b5031f97b46c5c709f641_large.jpg' alt='Plaza Mayor from Mirador San Cristobal' /><figcaption>Plaza Mayor from Mirador San Cristobal</figcaption></figure><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>On the outskirts stands the Inca fortress Sacsayhuamán (or sexy woman ;)), regarded as one of the greatest masterpieces of Inca architecture. The entire site also consists of massive interlocking stone blocks, like the foundational walls in the city center, only in much larger and more massive proportions. Sacsayhuamán likely served the Incas as a defensive structure, ceremonial site, or gathering place – as with almost all architectural relics from this culture, nothing precise is known – only assumptions remain in the realm of science. When Lara and I wanted to visit the sacred site, unfortunately, we were denied access because it is not possible to visit the site as an individual
It's clear that every country I've traveled to has culinary highlights to offer, but regarding this theme, Peru is undoubtedly next level. The incredible variety of previously unknown dishes is truly impressive. Every day, I have been indulging in some restaurant here, and it has always been excellent. I particularly enjoyed Lomo Saltado, a kind of beef stir-fry cooked with soy sauce, tomatoes, onions, and chilies and served with rice. An absolute delight, and if you move a little away from the tourist hotspots, you can also get this in Cusco for a very low price. Other highlights of Peruvian cuisine include Aji de Galina (a creamy chicken dish), Rocoto Relleno (stuffed spicy peppers – extremely delicious!), Anticuchos (grilled meat skewers from beef heart), alpaca or llama meat, and the especially popular Cuy (guinea pig) in Cusco and Arequipa – but more on that later.</p><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>Speaking of tourist hotspots: when you arrive in Cusco from Bolivia, you have to get used to it first. Cusco is completely overloaded with tourists from all over the world. Here, for the first time in ages, you hear people speaking German again, and it seems like every bar and every restaurant is full of Europeans. But it’s no wonder, as the main attraction in South America, Machu Picchu, is practically just around the corner and about 80% of all tourists coming to Peru fly directly from Lima to Cusco to make their way to this site. In principle, the influx of tourists is still within manageable limits; however, it is definitely a stark contrast to Bolivia.</p><figure><img src='https://img1.vakantio.de/uploads/9e7d09f1745f7b06de5cdd8883ea646c_large.jpg' alt='Procession at Plaza Mayor' /><figcaption>Procession at Plaza Mayor</figcaption></figure><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>After spending the first day in a jazz bar with live music and plenty of Pisco Sour, I set out in the following days to explore the cultural sites and landmarks more closely. Notably, the many Inca walls in the city center stand out. This impressive testimony to Inca architecture gives the old town its special historical character. The walls often line particularly narrow streets and consist of massive stone blocks that fit together perfectly without the use of mortar. This technique is known as ashlar masonry and is known for its earthquake resistance. Even in ancient times, this was an absolute necessity in this seismically active region. On Hatun Rumiyoc Street, there is a particularly famous section of this wall and the so-called stone of the 12 angles. The stone (integrated into the wall of a former Inca palace) is cut so precisely that it fits seamlessly with its 12 angles and edges into the adjacent stones, without even a gap or larger joint. Considering that the Incas did not have iron tools to work with the stones, standing in front of it, one wonders how it was possible to work the heavy and hard rock so precisely without this tool. Absolutely fascinating and still to this day an unresolved mystery for science. The Inca walls are still almost completely intact and well-preserved throughout the city. While the regular earthquakes have destroyed many of the later built buildings, these centuries-old walls remain in their original condition and form the foundations of the colonial buildings that the Spaniards erected after their conquest. Overall, the old town of Cusco is a fascinating testament to the fusion of Inca architecture and Spanish colonial construction, which continues to impressively shape the cityscape. Fairly, one must add that the cityscape would likely be considerably more impressive had the Spaniards not carried out their incredible devastation here in their plundering and destructive frenzy. Many Inca buildings in Cusco were dismantled by the Spaniards, especially religious and cultural centers of the Incas, to establish their own culture and rule. Instead of the temples, the Spaniards built monasteries and Catholic churches, for the most part on the fundamental walls of the Incas. This deliberate reconstruction was part of the Spaniards' strategy to suppress indigenous culture and demonstrate the power of their own empire. The impressive Plaza de Armas must have been even more imposing during Inca times. It is reported that all the buildings at that time were adorned with fittings and decorations made of pure gold, and the entire square was surrounded by a gold cord thick as an arm. Naturally, none of this can be found in its original form anymore, yet everything that stands here in terms of buildings is absolutely fascinating and unique in its form and significance. If you continue up the narrow streets in the north of the old town, you will have a wonderful view over the historic center from one of the viewpoints, gaining a more comprehensive understanding of the extent to which the historic buildings stretch while seeing how the city edges gradually consume the surrounding hills.</p><figure><img src='https://img1.vakantio.de/uploads/d6ba0cf4927b5031f97b46c5c709f641_large.jpg' alt='Plaza Mayor from Mirador San Cristobal' /><figcaption>Plaza Mayor from Mirador San Cristobal</figcaption></figure><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>On the outskirts stands the Inca fortress Sacsayhuamán (or sexy woman ;)), regarded as one of the greatest masterpieces of Inca architecture. The entire site also consists of massive interlocking stone blocks, like the foundational walls in the city center, only in much larger and more massive proportions. Sacsayhuamán likely served the Incas as a defensive structure, ceremonial site, or gathering place – as with almost all architectural relics from this culture, nothing precise is known – only assumptions remain in the realm of science. When Lara and I wanted to visit the sacred site, unfortunately, we were denied access because it is not possible to visit the site as an individual
attraction
attraction
and you must buy a rather expensive combination ticket for two other attractions in Cusco for access. All requests to visit the site separately unfortunately went unanswered, so we were left visiting the outer walls, which were also impressive. We could have paid for the combination ticket, but somehow neither of us felt justified in doing so, and the idea behind it just seemed completely absurd to us. Why is it a problem to visit an individual site separately? Really strange, and generally a point that struck me negatively about Peru immediately: you can sense the influence of mass tourism directly, especially in Cusco. Everything is geared towards squeezing as many coins out of the visitor as possible. Everything is quite expensive, and every activity requires some sort of fee or tax to be paid. Quite annoying, and the combination ticket deal is the icing on the cake. As beautiful as it is here, this is a significant downgrade in the comfort factor compared to Bolivia, where you didn't feel like you were being milked at every corner. As an alternative program to the sexy woman, we then decided to visit the Christ that is placed on the neighboring hill. Quite unremarkable but with a good view – also nice!</p><figure><img src='https://img1.vakantio.de/uploads/757cd0247262ec526833f84506530945_large.jpg' alt='The ruins of Sacsayhuamán' /><figcaption>The ruins of Sacsayhuamán</figcaption></figure><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>After a few pleasant days in the city, the sad part of the story comes: it's time to say goodbye to Nim, my positively quirky travel companion for many weeks. Nim will travel for 2 weeks to Colombia and then return to Down Under. So many shared experiences and the really great time make saying goodbye hard, and you could say that a true friendship has developed from this encounter in the deserts of Chile. You get to know each other, appreciate each other, and tolerate each other's quirks, which is particularly significant while traveling, haha. Take care, Nim! We will meet again! And in this case, that is not just a phrase; while Melbourne and Berlin are not exactly around the corner from each other, I'm sure we can arrange for one or more meet-ups in the future. After saying goodbye, I take a trip to Arequipa (report for that separately) and change hostels to prepare for my trek to Machu Picchu.</p><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>In the coming days, I also meet Christian from Buenos Aires again, who is preparing here for his upcoming Peru and Bolivia tour with a German travel group. There is a lot to talk about, and soccer is watched. Quite cool: you meet many months ago at the other corner of the continent, reunite here, and immediately get back on the same wavelength. Cool guy and a few entertaining days before I finally decide to start the trek to the holiest of all Inca sites, while Christian continues his journey to Bolivia, before we meet again for 2 days in Lima.</p><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>Just before my departure from Cusco, I absolutely wanted to try Cuy, known as guinea pig in our parts and a delicacy in these regions. However, the Cuy is not actually the household version of the guinea pig we know but rather a slightly larger but related breed that is specifically raised here for consumption. Beforehand, I had already picked one of the restaurants that serve Cuy and have good reviews accordingly. I was advised several times against consuming it in one of the cheaper restaurants, as they apparently like to serve rat instead of the bred guinea pig. For the hungry eyes of the Central European, it’s very hard to tell the difference, so I wanted to play it safe. For about 18 Euros (specialties are expensive), you're served the fried mini pig, which doesn’t exactly look appetizing, and even the small teeth stick out of the also fried mouth. It’s only possible to eat it with your hands, and the whole thing turns out to be quite tough. The meat is quite okay, but there's hardly anything on it. The highlight is more the side dishes, and if you're not a fan of the fried skin, you’ll more or less be left hungry. Well – that must have been something, at least I tried the so-called specialty. However, that was probably a one-time deal, 1 out of 5 stars – not something to do again. All the other dishes from the local cuisine are definitely much more convincing!</p><figure><img src='https://img1.vakantio.de/uploads/3e330425ad0ea0b6cc2a01fbbc1866bb_large.jpg' alt='Cuy or also guinea pig' /><figcaption>Cuy or also guinea pig</figcaption></figure><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>I leave Cusco with mixed but mostly positive feelings. Cusco was an absolute highlight of my journey from a cultural perspective. The city exudes an incredible cultural depth; you sense the influence of the centuries-old Inca culture in every street, and everywhere you discover small details that tell the long and eventful history of the city. And of course, it is a true joy from a culinary point of view – hardly any place in South America offers a more diverse and flavorful cuisine. You can taste the influences of the different cultures, and each dish tells its own story. However, Cusco feels a bit too much aimed at mass tourism for my taste, and you can clearly feel that, especially regarding the price level. Tours and entries often cost more than I was accustomed to and expected. It can be quite exhausting to be constantly confronted with offers and vendors primarily targeting tourist budgets. You really do feel a bit squeezed, even if in Peru, everything is essentially negotiable.</p><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>In summary, Cusco remains a unique experience – the vibrant culture captivates, and the breathtaking architecture is absolutely worth seeing. The city has inspired me, and hopefully, the memories will last a long time.</p>
and you must buy a rather expensive combination ticket for two other attractions in Cusco for access. All requests to visit the site separately unfortunately went unanswered, so we were left visiting the outer walls, which were also impressive. We could have paid for the combination ticket, but somehow neither of us felt justified in doing so, and the idea behind it just seemed completely absurd to us. Why is it a problem to visit an individual site separately? Really strange, and generally a point that struck me negatively about Peru immediately: you can sense the influence of mass tourism directly, especially in Cusco. Everything is geared towards squeezing as many coins out of the visitor as possible. Everything is quite expensive, and every activity requires some sort of fee or tax to be paid. Quite annoying, and the combination ticket deal is the icing on the cake. As beautiful as it is here, this is a significant downgrade in the comfort factor compared to Bolivia, where you didn't feel like you were being milked at every corner. As an alternative program to the sexy woman, we then decided to visit the Christ that is placed on the neighboring hill. Quite unremarkable but with a good view – also nice!</p><figure><img src='https://img1.vakantio.de/uploads/757cd0247262ec526833f84506530945_large.jpg' alt='The ruins of Sacsayhuamán' /><figcaption>The ruins of Sacsayhuamán</figcaption></figure><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>After a few pleasant days in the city, the sad part of the story comes: it's time to say goodbye to Nim, my positively quirky travel companion for many weeks. Nim will travel for 2 weeks to Colombia and then return to Down Under. So many shared experiences and the really great time make saying goodbye hard, and you could say that a true friendship has developed from this encounter in the deserts of Chile. You get to know each other, appreciate each other, and tolerate each other's quirks, which is particularly significant while traveling, haha. Take care, Nim! We will meet again! And in this case, that is not just a phrase; while Melbourne and Berlin are not exactly around the corner from each other, I'm sure we can arrange for one or more meet-ups in the future. After saying goodbye, I take a trip to Arequipa (report for that separately) and change hostels to prepare for my trek to Machu Picchu.</p><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>In the coming days, I also meet Christian from Buenos Aires again, who is preparing here for his upcoming Peru and Bolivia tour with a German travel group. There is a lot to talk about, and soccer is watched. Quite cool: you meet many months ago at the other corner of the continent, reunite here, and immediately get back on the same wavelength. Cool guy and a few entertaining days before I finally decide to start the trek to the holiest of all Inca sites, while Christian continues his journey to Bolivia, before we meet again for 2 days in Lima.</p><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>Just before my departure from Cusco, I absolutely wanted to try Cuy, known as guinea pig in our parts and a delicacy in these regions. However, the Cuy is not actually the household version of the guinea pig we know but rather a slightly larger but related breed that is specifically raised here for consumption. Beforehand, I had already picked one of the restaurants that serve Cuy and have good reviews accordingly. I was advised several times against consuming it in one of the cheaper restaurants, as they apparently like to serve rat instead of the bred guinea pig. For the hungry eyes of the Central European, it’s very hard to tell the difference, so I wanted to play it safe. For about 18 Euros (specialties are expensive), you're served the fried mini pig, which doesn’t exactly look appetizing, and even the small teeth stick out of the also fried mouth. It’s only possible to eat it with your hands, and the whole thing turns out to be quite tough. The meat is quite okay, but there's hardly anything on it. The highlight is more the side dishes, and if you're not a fan of the fried skin, you’ll more or less be left hungry. Well – that must have been something, at least I tried the so-called specialty. However, that was probably a one-time deal, 1 out of 5 stars – not something to do again. All the other dishes from the local cuisine are definitely much more convincing!</p><figure><img src='https://img1.vakantio.de/uploads/3e330425ad0ea0b6cc2a01fbbc1866bb_large.jpg' alt='Cuy or also guinea pig' /><figcaption>Cuy or also guinea pig</figcaption></figure><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>I leave Cusco with mixed but mostly positive feelings. Cusco was an absolute highlight of my journey from a cultural perspective. The city exudes an incredible cultural depth; you sense the influence of the centuries-old Inca culture in every street, and everywhere you discover small details that tell the long and eventful history of the city. And of course, it is a true joy from a culinary point of view – hardly any place in South America offers a more diverse and flavorful cuisine. You can taste the influences of the different cultures, and each dish tells its own story. However, Cusco feels a bit too much aimed at mass tourism for my taste, and you can clearly feel that, especially regarding the price level. Tours and entries often cost more than I was accustomed to and expected. It can be quite exhausting to be constantly confronted with offers and vendors primarily targeting tourist budgets. You really do feel a bit squeezed, even if in Peru, everything is essentially negotiable.</p><p style='color:rgb(0, 0, 0)'>In summary, Cusco remains a unique experience – the vibrant culture captivates, and the breathtaking architecture is absolutely worth seeing. The city has inspired me, and hopefully, the memories will last a long time.</p>
Cusco
Cusco
Plaza Mayor de Cuzco
Plaza Mayor de Cuzco
Border Bolivia - Peru
Border Bolivia - Peru
Futuristic Tuk Tuk on the way to Cusco
Futuristic Tuk Tuk on the way to Cusco
Parade at Plaza Mayor
Parade at Plaza Mayor
Parade at Plaza Mayor
Parade at Plaza Mayor
Parade at Plaza Mayor
Parade at Plaza Mayor
Parade at Plaza Mayor
Parade at Plaza Mayor
At the Jazz Bar
At the Jazz Bar
Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor
Pariwana Hostel
Pariwana Hostel
Market in Centro Historico
Market in Centro Historico
Centro Historico
Centro Historico
Culinary Delights
Culinary Delights
Ceviche
Ceviche
Cuy or also guinea pig
Cuy or also guinea pig
The old Inca walls
The old Inca walls
Stone of the 12 corners
Stone of the 12 corners
Stone of the 12 corners in size comparison
Stone of the 12 corners in size comparison
Inca walls
Inca walls
On the way to Mirador San Cristobal
On the way to Mirador San Cristobal
The streets in Centro Historico
The streets in Centro Historico
Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor
Procession at Plaza Mayor
Procession at Plaza Mayor
Procession at Plaza Mayor
Procession at Plaza Mayor
Procession at Plaza Mayor
Procession at Plaza Mayor
There’s always something to celebrate in Cusco
There’s always something to celebrate in Cusco
View of Plaza Mayor
View of Plaza Mayor
The streets to Plaza Mayor
The streets to Plaza Mayor
Streets on the way to the Mirador
Streets on the way to the Mirador
Plaza Mayor from Mirador San Cristobal
Plaza Mayor from Mirador San Cristobal
Plaza Mayor from Mirador San Cristobal
Plaza Mayor from Mirador San Cristobal
Centro Historico
Centro Historico
The ruins of Sacsayhuamán
The ruins of Sacsayhuamán
The ruins of Sacsayhuamán
The ruins of Sacsayhuamán
The ruins of Sacsayhuamán
The ruins of Sacsayhuamán
The ruins of Sacsayhuamán
The ruins of Sacsayhuamán
Centro Historico
Centro Historico
Coricancha - the highest sanctuary in the Inca Empire
Coricancha - the highest sanctuary in the Inca Empire
Plaza Mayor at dusk
Plaza Mayor at dusk
At the bus terminal
At the bus terminal
Rivendell Hostel
Rivendell Hostel
Chelitos Backpacker
Chelitos Backpacker
Estadio Garcilaso
Estadio Garcilaso

When crossing the border from Bolivia to Peru, the first thing that strikes one is the unfamiliar road conditions. Well-maintained asphalt and lane markings. Not unusual, really, but after all those weeks on Bolivian tracks, I find myself in awe for a moment. The bus takes me to Puno and from there overnight to Cusco. The quality of transportation also seems to be different here; at least, the night bus is first-class.

Upon arriving in Cusco, I check into the hostel and realize that Lara coincidentally is in the same room. I had met Lara (from Rio) in La Paz, and we had been on the Death Road together – funny. In the afternoon, I take my first exploration tour and immediately notice the unique atmosphere of the city. Everywhere, you can see traces of Inca culture embedded in colonial architecture. Stone Inca walls next to colorful house facades in narrow cobblestone lanes. Very interesting to look at. The walk leads me to the Plaza de Armas, the vibrant heart of Cusco and a magical place. On the square, different groups of indigenous people dance to traditional music. I can't exactly say what is being celebrated or organized here, but it certainly gives the square a wonderful magic. Various festivities seem to be the order of the day in Cusco. It feels like there's some kind of performance every day I am at Plaza de Armas. Wild dance performances and colorful traditional costumes are part of the cityscape, and not just at the main square—dancing and celebrating happen in every corner of the city. I like it a lot, and it gives the already visually impressive cityscape a special spirit. After the first impressions, I am immediately thrilled and we (Nim is now back from Machu Picchu, and we are exploring the city together) decide on one of the numerous restaurants in the city center to test the highly praised Peruvian cuisine. Peruvian cuisine is a mix of traditional indigenous dishes and the influences of Spanish, African, and Asian immigrants. There is a huge selection of regional ingredients, and all of it creates a wonderful fusion that makes culinary experiences in Peru so special. To go into detail about every menu item would be too much, but the cuisine has been extensively tested during my time in Cusco and in Peru in general and definitely receives my label of

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