Within reach of the goal

Finally, someone took care of my tooth. In Borgo San Dalmazzo, I explained the problem to a dentist, and after a short wait, she took a look at the tooth right away. It was just a small piece broken off, it should hold up until November. I was relieved. After a short polishing of the edges, I could go again, and the treatment was even free. Why couldn't it have been that uncomplicated in Barcelonnette?

If it wasn't for the bad weather front approaching, I could be in Ventimiglia in three days. But I had to be patient. I explored the surprisingly well-built trails around Borgo a bit more and then stayed in an affordable apartment in the nearby mountain village of Valdieri for two days. It was almost like a classic living situation, which I hadn't experienced in months. With a fully equipped kitchen, sofa, and bedroom. So I made myself comfortable while it poured outside all day.

The last three stages promised to be really exciting. The route continued through the Alpi Marittime and then along a former military road and the Ligurian border ridge all the way down to the sea. A total of 130 kilometers away from civilization. Only one refuge was halfway, otherwise I was completely dependent on my own food and equipment. The finest bikepacking, so to speak.

The first day took me one last time into high alpine terrain, to the Col du Sabion. Just below the pass, there was a beautifully located lake with a emergency bivouac shelter of the Italian Alpine Club. The small one-room hut was unlocked, and at first I was happy that this could be a nice and slightly different accommodation option. But it was the weekend, and shortly before sunset, a group of seven hikers arrived who also wanted to stay in the bivouac. So instead of squeezing into the accommodation with this group in very tight space, I decided to pitch my trusty tent again.

The next day, after a short and beautiful trail, I got on the military road, which would take me up and down through the coastal mountains for the next 60 kilometers. My timing here was far from optimal as it was Sunday and masses of off-road vehicles and enduro motorcycles crowded the rough and rocky road for equipment testing. The material battle was absurdly driven by some brave Italians who mingled with their rickety Fiat Pandas among the highly equipped jeeps and surprisingly managed quite well on the road. For me on the bike, it was sometimes a bit exhausting during the ascents, but overall I made good progress and bumped along at a leisurely pace in front of a magnificent Alpine backdrop.

Shortly after the Rifugio San Barbeo, I reached the summit, and the climate and landscape suddenly changed at a high mountain pass from high alpine frosty-fresh to dry and Mediterranean warm. This not only meant that summer seemed to come back, but also that suddenly the riverbeds had no more water. When I noticed this for the first time, I thought it would change again, after all, I still had 70 kilometers ahead of me.

So I kept cycling, through endless forests with countless picnic spots. Unfortunately, all of them without water. When it was time to look for a camping spot in the afternoon, there was still no water source in sight. My whole hope was based on a passage that, according to the map, was crossed by several rivers. Just before I reached it, I passed a small shack with a trough for livestock. Lukewarm water seeped from a hose. That was certainly not the fresh spring I had hoped for. Nevertheless, I filled up with nearly 6 liters of water supply, just in case. And this case did happen. From that point on, I didn't encounter a single other water source until Ventimiglia. If I hadn't filled up here, it would have been my downfall at the latest the next day.

Due to the additional weight, I didn't cycle much further. Quickly, I found a quiet and secluded spot in the forest to set up my camp. Tomorrow it would be done, the sea was within reach.