The hearty cuisine of the Creoles

La Réunion belongs to France, and one can enjoy good French cuisine in various restaurants throughout the island. However, it is more exciting to eat Creole, which is simple, local, and flavorful cuisine. A cooking class provides an initial insight.

Creole refers to a culture, language, and identity that emerged from the blending of European, African, and indigenous populations and their influences during the colonial period. I learned this during my stay on the island of La Réunion in the Indian Ocean in December 2025.

This mixed culture can be found in certain African countries, as well as in many regions where African slaves were transported: in the Caribbean, in Latin America, or even in the US state of Louisiana. On La Réunion, a French department in the Indian Ocean located between Madagascar and Mauritius, a strong French-influenced Creole is spoken, which is difficult to understand, even for me, although I speak French quite well.

The Creole cuisine of La Réunion is simple and very nutritious because it was meant for people working hard in the sugarcane plantations. It is based exclusively on local products, as we learned at a culinary event. Sophie Riviere and her son Nathan run the “Atelier Culinaire - Le Goût Kréol” in their private home above the village of Les Avirons.

Pork or Shrimp

Behind the house, a thick pig grunts in the ground, which had been softened by a heavy downpour; geese, chickens, a rooster, and several cats populate the garden. The house pig, named “Junior,” will never end up in the pan, assures Nathan, who works full-time as a logistician at the port. Another pig, however, will have to be used for our hearty main course.

For those who do not like pork, there are Crevettes, or shrimp. As side dishes, we prepare white rice, lentils, and pureed eggplant. Before we go to the cutting boards and cooking pots, there is a piece of potato cake that would suffice as a main meal by itself.

Sophie and Nathan have great success with their cooking workshop. There is space for a maximum of twelve guests at a time; often the offering is booked up long in advance. Mainly tourists and long-term guests take advantage of it. Here is the menu that we prepared in the Atelier Culinaire:

Porc à l’ancienne (Pork in Grandma's Style)

Ingredients for 6 to 8 people
1 kg of pork (e.g., belly, shoulder, or neck; on La Réunion, they take whatever they can get)
500 g of potatoes
3 dl of rapeseed or sunflower oil (or 300 g of cooking fat)
1 dl of olive oil
5 sprigs of rosemary
1 whole garlic
1 bunch of thyme
Salt and pepper

Preparation
Heat rapeseed or sunflower oil or cooking fat in a large pot (over the fire if available, otherwise on a gas or, if not otherwise possible, electric stove)
Peel the potatoes and cut them into cubes
Cut the pork into large pieces, brown together with the rosemary sprigs all around
Strip the thyme, peel and crush the garlic, mix with salt, plenty of pepper, and olive oil
Combine the mixture with the browned meat
Add water until the meat is covered
Let it simmer for ½ hour over medium heat
Then add the diced potatoes
Let it simmer again for another ½ hour
Season to taste with salt and pepper

Serve with white rice and vegetables of choice (carrots, celery, cassava, etc.).

Shrimp Curry (Stew)

Ingredients for 5 to 6 people
1 kg of giant shrimp in shell (fresh or frozen)
1 whole garlic
2 large red onions
2 tbsp black or white pepper
150 g ginger
2 nutmegs
6 cloves
2 chili peppers (more or less, depending on desired spiciness)
1 bunch of thyme
2 tbsp turmeric powder
2 – 3 tomatoes

Preparation
Peel and finely chop or crush onions and garlic
Grate the ginger
Grate the nutmegs
Cut the chili peppers into fine strips
Pick the thyme
Cut the tomatoes into small cubes
Cut the shrimp along the back to remove the intestine; remove the head
Mix all ingredients except shrimp, thyme, tomatoes, and turmeric and sauté in heated oil in a large pan
Add thyme, tomatoes, turmeric, and a cup of water
Bring to a boil for 10 minutes
Finally, add the unpeeled shrimp (for a more intense aroma) and cook for two minutes

Serve with white rice, lentils, and pureed eggplant

Lentils

Ingredients
250 g lentils (on La Réunion, local Cilaos lentils are used; can be replaced with green or Puy lentils)
1 red onion
6 garlic cloves
1 bunch of thyme
2 tbsp turmeric powder
Salt
1 tbsp olive oil

Preparation
Boil lentils in water until they are soft but still firm to the bite
Drain excess water
Peel and finely chop or crush onion and garlic
Tear thyme
Mix with salt and olive oil
Stir into the lentils
Briefly bring to a boil
Season to taste if desired

Eggplant Puree

Ingredients
1 large eggplant
1 chili pepper
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp wine vinegar
1 red onion

Preparation
Roast the eggplant directly in the fire until the skin is charred black
(Alternatively: Bake for 1 hour at 180 degrees in the oven)
Extract the soft flesh from the skin
Mix with the finely chopped chili, finely chopped onion, oil, and vinegar
Season with salt and pepper to taste

Potato Cake

Ingredients
1 kg sweet potatoes (white or red)
2 eggs
100 g sugar
120 g flour
125 g melted butter
1 dl rum

Preparation
Boil sweet potatoes until soft, peel, and mash
Beat eggs until fluffy
Mix well with the potatoes, sugar, flour, and butter
Pour the mixture into a flat, buttered dish and bake for 1 hour at 160 degrees
Let cool for 1 hour
Cut into portions
Serve with fresh fruits (e.g., mango or pineapple pieces), pickled peaches, pears, or a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Creole “Piña Colada”

Put 1 can of sweetened condensed milk and one can (of the same amount) of coconut milk into an empty bottle; close it and shake the liquid well. Add a vanilla pod and white rum to taste and store in the fridge overnight. Shake again and serve ice-cold or with ice cubes.