Day 7: Arctic Heatwave, Glacier Hike, and the Tunnel Marathon

Today we said goodbye to the island of Magerøya. The compass is pointing south again. Our destination for the day was in the Tromsø region, specifically inland along the E8, just before the Swedish border and high in the mountains. However, the journey held some surprises – especially when looking at the thermometer.

Climate Change Live? 30 Degrees in the Far North

Yesterday we had to lean against the storm, today the air conditioning in the car was running at full blast. No joke: the thermometer climbed to almost 30 degrees. The air was no longer clear and fresh like at North Cape, but rather stifling. At one of the (delightfully cool) fjords, I met a local teenager who was swimming. He just laughed and said that such weather might occur up here every few years. So, we hit the arctic jackpot – or felt the climate crisis up close.

The Route: Tunnel Views and Real Fjords

We followed the E6 along the coast southwards. The landscape is noticeably changing now. The barren tundra is giving way, it's becoming greener again, and we passed by the first 'real', deeply carved fjords we know from postcards. At the same time, the drive turned into a Tunnel Marathon. Norwegians are world champions in tunnel construction, and today we seemed to go through the mountain instead of over it every ten minutes. The reindeer were scarce – they seem to have retreated to the higher altitudes in this heat (or due to the traffic).

Hike at Jøkelfjord (with company)

Instead of stopping in the town of Alta (which we bypassed today), we were drawn out into nature to the Jøkelfjord. Here, the only glacier on the European mainland calves directly into the sea (well, almost). We embarked on a hike to see the glacier better.

• The Encounter: Along the way, we met an Italian teacher who, just like us, was on a big road trip. It’s always exciting how you immediately start a conversation up here. Everyone is in 'explorer mode'.

• The Pest: Unfortunately, lingering and enjoying was hardly possible. While the mosquitoes were gone, other strange insects (probably horseflies or biting midges) buzzed around us, extremely aggressive in the stifling heat. So: take a photo, marvel briefly, and move on.

We made two more stops at waterfalls right by the road. In this heat, just the spray mist from the water was a blessing.

Overnight Stay in the Mountains

In the evening, we reached our accommodation on the E8 in the mountains. Again a solid place to stay with the tried-and-true principle: private room, but kitchen and bathroom are shared. In the kitchen, a long, interesting conversation developed with a lady from Finland. That’s the beauty of these communal accommodations: you exchange routes, compare weather experiences, and gain insights into the lives of your neighbors.