Day 7: Arctic Heatwave, Glacier Hike, and the Tunnel Marathon
Today we said goodbye to the island of Magerøya. The compass is pointing south again. Our daily destination was in the Tromsø region, specifically inland along the...

Published: 23.11.2025
Today's theme was: 'The journey is the destination'. We left the mountains at the Swedish border and headed towards one of Norway's most famous cities: Tromsø.
Tromsø is often referred to as the 'Paris of the North' or the 'Gateway to the Arctic'. Sounds great, right? However, the reality for drivers is quite different. The parking situation in the city center is – to put it mildly – a disaster. You either find nothing, or you pay a fortune in the underground tunnels. After a while of driving around and searching, we decided: The stress isn't worth it in this weather. We just took a quick look around and then decided to leave the city and enjoy nature instead.
On the way back from Tromsø to the main route (E6), we opted for adventure over speed. We turned onto small, lonely country roads. That turned out to be the best decision of the day! While motorhomes crowded the main road, we were almost alone here.
Swimming Stop: We found a beautiful section of fjord that was perfect for swimming. The weather was still nice – it wasn't as sticky as yesterday, but still wonderfully warm and sunny. A swim in the Arctic Ocean (or rather, the fjord) in sunshine? Priceless.
Our destination was no longer on the mainland today. Without having to take a ferry, we reached Hinnøya island and the city of Harstad via bridges. We're now practically at the gateway to Vesterålen and Lofoten. The landscape here is noticeably more maritime.
Our accommodation for the night was a converted farm a bit outside of town. And here we experienced a real surprise. We had a top modern room, this time even with private bathroom (a real luxury after the last few days with shared showers). The price was fair, the location excellent as a springboard for the Lofoten, and it is the absolute high season. Still: We were the only guests. It was almost eerie. A huge farm, completely empty, just us. Why this gem wasn't fully booked is a mystery to me. But we certainly enjoyed the peace and space – sometimes you just get lucky!
Day Summary:
City Frustration: Tromsø is beautiful, parking is annoying.
Route: The small side roads south of Tromsø are a dream.
Weather: Continuing summer feeling in the far north.
Accommodation: A whole farm just for us – for whatever reason.
