Day 18: Truck Blockade, Fog at Dalsnibba & Swimming in Glacier Water

Today, one of Norway's most famous places was on the list: The Geirangerfjord. However, the day was less influenced by the fjord itself and more by the traffic chaos before it, a white wall at the summit, and a spontaneous extreme cool-down.

The Bottleneck: When a Truck Blocks the Serpentines

On the drive down to Geiranger (via the famous Eagle Road), the super disaster happened: A truck broke down in one of the narrow hairpin turns. Nothing was moving. I was relatively far back in the queue. Buses and campers in front of me, and behind me, the traffic continued to build up. My options were limited:

1. Wait (could take hours).

2. Turn back (means a huge detour).

3. Take the escape forward.

Since my small car is significantly narrower than the campers, I saw a gap between the broken truck and the guardrail. So I gathered my courage and weaved past the waiting column towards the front ('Option 3'). The plot twist: Just as I arrived at the front, the truck driver got his vehicle moving again and cleared the lane. The result: I was able to drive off first – ahead of the buses and those who had been waiting for ages. Culture Shock: I felt guilty for essentially 'jumping the queue' (albeit without malicious intent). In Germany, there would have been a concert of honks and middle fingers. Here? Nothing. No angry looks, absolute calmness. The Norwegian tranquility in road traffic is truly admirable.

Geiranger: Quickly Leaving

Upon reaching the village of Geiranger, my premonition was confirmed. It is beautiful, yes, but mercilessly overcrowded. Cruise tourists, buses, and these countless RVs are just annoying on the narrow streets. Parking was impossible, and after the stress on the mountain, I had no desire for crowds. So: A quick look, tick it off, and up the mountain again on the other side.

Dalsnibba: Blind Flight at Zero Degrees

The next destination was the Dalsnibba viewpoint at nearly 1500 meters altitude. Usually, you have the best view down into the fjord here. Not today. We drove straight into a dense cloud. Visibility went to zero, and driving became a groping blind flight. Upon arriving at the top, the thermometer showed just above 0 degrees. View? None. But the atmosphere in this white, cold soup was uniquely mystical. Sometimes, the weather is the bigger experience than the panorama.

Glacier Dip & Fjord Swimming

On the long way south (I drove through the tunnels, not over the old mountain pass road), we passed a glacier. The associated Glacial Lake shone unrealistically blue and inviting, that I spontaneously stopped. It might have been madness, but I had to go in. A dip in the glacier water definitely awakens all the spirits of life!

In the evening, we reached Lærdal at the Sognefjord (the second longest fjord in the world). In Lærdal, we settled into a comfortable accommodation (hotel-like with a private bathroom). And since the glacier lake was apparently not enough, we went into the water again in the evening: This time directly in the Lærdalsfjord. The water was salty, the mountains were huge, and the day ended relaxed in the water after starting so stressfully on the mountain.

Day Summary:

• Lucky Guy: By chance (and courage) bypassed the traffic jam.

• Tourism: Geiranger is beautiful, but too crowded.

• Weather: Dalsnibba in fog = 0 degrees & 0 visibility.

• Challenge: Swimming in the glacial lake AND in the Sognefjord in one day.

• Accommodation: Lærdal as the perfect base.