Tag 14: Over the barren high plateau and back into twilight

Today, a proper stage was on the agenda again. From Bodø, we headed straight south, always down the E6 to Steinkjer. That's many kilometers, but the route today offered a unique, almost mystical atmosphere.

The Saltfjellet: Desolately beautiful

The absolute highlight of the journey was crossing the Saltfjellet mountain range. The landscape up here is radically different from the fjords or the islands. It is a high plateau: barren, treeless, and expansive. For the first time in days, the sun had said goodbye. The sky was overcast and gray. Normally, one hopes for sun during a holiday, but up here this bleak weather was perfect. It accentuated the desolation of this rugged area. It was 'moody', quiet, and in a peculiar way, deeply impressive.

Stop at the Arctic Circle (66° 33′ N)

In the middle of the fjell stands the Polarsirkelsenteret. We of course stopped here to now officially cross the Arctic Circle southwards. In the center itself, I looked at the exhibition – especially the many stuffed animals of the Arctic are eye-catching (since you don’t see them in the wild).

• Important Note: Outside, you can see thousands of small stone towers ('cairns') built by tourists. I refrained from doing so. In fact, it is now banned and not looked upon favorably as it disturbs the fragile nature and leaves traces where there shouldn't be any. So: Just look, don't build!

The 'Ghost House' in Steinkjer

After a long drive, we reached our destination Steinkjer. And here, the curiosity from Day 8 repeated itself: Our accommodation (fixed place, communal kitchen, private room) was top-notch. Spacious, clean, good price, great parking. But: I was once again the only guest. Right in the high season, in a good accommodation on the main E6 route. It’s a mystery to me where all the tourists are sleeping, but I enjoyed the peace in the huge kitchen.

Welcome back, darkness!

A feeling that I had almost forgotten set in during the evening. Since we have now left the Arctic Circle a good way behind us, the light is changing. It is getting 'darker' again at night. Not completely dark yet, but there is a distinct twilight covering the landscape. After almost two weeks of continuous light, this is very cozy and helps a lot with sleeping.

Daily summary:

• Highlight: The drive over the barren Saltfjellet in cloudy conditions.

• Arctic Circle: Stop at the center, but no stone towers built (protect nature!).

• Weather: Gray upon gray, but dry and atmospheric.

• Accommodation: All alone in the big house.

• Light: The first real twilight in a long time.