Tag 14: Over the barren high plateau and back into twilight
Today, a proper stage was on the agenda again. From Bodø, we headed straight south, always down the E6 to Steinkjer. That's many kilometers, but the route today offered a unique,...

Published: 23.11.2025
After the lonely mountains of Saltfjellet and the overnight stay in Steinkjer, today we had another varied driving stage ahead. We were heading towards the coast, more precisely to one of the most famous roads in the world.
We passed through Trondheim without a sightseeing stop. However, there was an experience on the road that I had almost forgotten: Driving on the highway! After almost two weeks on narrow Norwegian country roads, where you rarely drive faster than 70 or 80 km/h, the 100 or 110 km/h on the highway near Trondheim felt like Formula 1. You wouldn't believe how much perception shifts – suddenly the landscape rushes past you. A short but exciting culture shock.
We continued on the E39 towards Kristiansund. To reach the city, one must go through the Atlantic Ocean Tunnel. A deep underwater tunnel – I couldn't miss that. It’s a bit unsettling but fascinating to drive so deep below sea level. Just outside the city, we took the opportunity for a coastal hike. After all the sitting in the car, the movement felt good, and the rugged coastline here is simply breathtaking.
And then it lay before us: The Atlantic Road. This road, weaving over countless small islands and islets, connected by eight bridges, is an architectural masterpiece. The weather was perfect – even without sunshine. It was cloudy, but dry. These gray, heavy clouds over the dark sea gave the scene an incredibly mystical, almost dramatic atmosphere. In bright sunshine, everyone can see that – but this diffused light suited the rough sea much better.
Actually, the plan was to head to an official campsite. But just behind the Atlantic Road, we discovered a free parking lot by a meadow. Quick check: Is it allowed to park here? Yes. So change of plans: Wild camping. We pitched the tent directly on the meadow. The view of the sea and the road in the evening light was magnificent. And to continue the running joke of the last few days: Since we camped wild, I was, of course, again the only guest in my 'accommodation' today. ;-) It was wonderfully quiet, and I didn't miss the sunshine for a second in this atmosphere.
Day Summary:
Speed: Finally drove over 100 km/h again!
Technology: Underwater tunnel & the first toll ferry.
Must-See: The Atlantic Road is also (or especially) an experience in cloudy weather.
Overnight Stay: Spontaneous wild camping in a prime location.
Atmosphere: Mystical, calm, content.
