Published: 23.11.2025
Today we had to rack up kilometers and drive away from the rain. We left the spectacular fjord region and set course for southern Norway. However, the day held not only record structures but also two important lessons – one about animals and one about finances.
The day started with a superlative. When you leave from Lærdal, you have a choice: over the mountain (snow road) or straight through it. I chose the tunnel – and not just any tunnel. The Lærdal Tunnel is with 24.5 kilometers the longest road tunnel in the world. It’s an insane experience. You drive for about 20 minutes just through rock. To prevent drivers from falling asleep due to monotony, engineers blasted huge halls into the tunnel that are illuminated with blue and yellow light. This is meant to simulate sunrise and feels completely futuristic.
On the drive through the interior, I encountered a new danger. In the north, it was reindeer, here in the south it’s sheep. And here lies the treacherous difference:
Reindeer are large, strut around, and are usually easy to see.
Sheep, on the other hand, are the ninjas of Norwegian roads. They are smaller and love to sleep on the warm asphalt – or they seek shelter from the rain in the tunnels! Since their fleece often has the same color as the dirty road surface or the concrete walls, they are seen extremely late. You enter a dark tunnel, and suddenly there are five sheep lying in the roadway. The only solution is to keep your foot ready on the brakes and stay alert.
Speaking of rain: A heavy storm had accompanied us all day. When we finally arrived hungry in the region, I headed to the only supermarket for miles. I stood at the checkout, my arms full of groceries, and pulled out my card as usual. But nothing worked. The storm had cut the line; the card reader was dead. At that moment, I was incredibly grateful that despite all the 'In Scandinavia, you never need cash' tips, I had tucked away a few bills. Without this emergency cash, I would have had to put back my groceries and would have gone to bed hungry tonight. Lesson learned: Never rely 100% on technology, especially not in the wilderness.
Our destination was the tiny place Harstveit (near Åmli) in the province of Agder. We are now away from the dramatic West Fjords and right in the middle of forested, gentler southern Norway. And as if the weather had a guilty conscience, the miracle happened in the evening: the rain stopped, and the sun actually came out one more time. Thus, this gray day ended on a reconciliatory note – full (thanks to cash!) and with golden evening light.
Daily Summary:
Record: Drive through the longest tunnel in the world.
Warning: Sheep in the tunnel are harder to see than reindeer!
Finances: Cash is king when the storm knocks out the card reader.
Mood: First gray and wet, at the end sunny and relaxed.
