Published: 23.11.2025
Today, Ålesund was on the agenda. Although we changed hotels (but stayed in the city), the real adventure today was of a historical and architectural nature.
The day began gray. It drizzled off and on – that typical, fine fjord weather. But since it was calm, the umbrella was more than sufficient. Before heading out on foot, the car had to be parked. And even that is spectacular in Ålesund. I parked my compact car in a parking garage that is built three levels deep into the massive mountain. You essentially drive into the rock – it has a bit of a James Bond flair and once again shows how the Norwegians master the struggle of 'man against stone.'
During the city walk, I immediately noticed the contrasts by the water. On one side, the modern cruise port, where the huge floating hotels dock and thousands of tourists flood into the city. On the other side, the 'normal' working harbor with fishing boats and smaller vessels. Ålesund is still one of Norway's most important fishing towns (keyword: stockfish), and it is nice to see that the city is not just a backdrop, but that real life continues here.
Despite the drizzle, I was determined to conquer the local mountain Aksla. 418 steps lead up from the city park. Once at the top, one has that famous view of the island chain and the city, which appears to be perfectly placed in the water. Even on a gray day, this view is majestic. From up here, you can also see the city's unique architecture particularly well – which leads to a contemplative topic.
As one walks through Ålesund, it is immediately noticeable: Everything is built in Art Nouveau style. Towers, decorations, colorful facades. This is atypical for Norway. The reason for this is a disaster – and German aid. In 1904, the city was almost entirely destroyed in a devastating great fire. The German Emperor Wilhelm II., a great fan of Norway, immediately sent ships with aid supplies, building materials, and craftsmen. Ålesund was rebuilt with German assistance in this beautiful style. Here, the Germans were the saviors and builders.
This thought accompanied me throughout the day, as it stands in brutal contrast to what I saw or did not see on my journey in the far north (Finnmark/Troms). Up there, the German troops raged during World War II under the code name 'Operation Northern Light.' They employed the tactic of 'scorched earth'. Almost every town, every village (like Hammerfest or parts of Alta) was forcibly evacuated and completely burned down by the Wehrmacht, so that the Red Army would find nothing.
It is a strange feeling:
In the north, I drive through places that have lost their history because German soldiers destroyed them.
Here in the west, I stand in one of Norway's most beautiful cities, which owes its beauty to the fact that Germans rebuilt it.
So this day in Ålesund was more than just sightseeing. It was a lesson about how differently a nation can leave its mark on another country.
Conclusion of the Day:
Parking: Spectacular in the mountain (3 levels!).
Weather: Drizzle, but calm (umbrella-friendly).
View: Aksla is a must, even with clouds.
History: The moving contrast between the reconstruction here (1904) and the destruction in the north (1944).
