La Fortuna

11.5.2026 Arrival in La Fortuna

It’s time to say goodbye to Tortuguero. It has been a fantastic and intense time here. We enjoy one last 'Continental' breakfast with scrambled eggs, toast, and fruit in the beautiful colorful courtyard, and then we set off to the harbor.

I go once more to the little stand at the harbor and buy typical Caribbean galetas with spicy beef as travel provisions, and of course the delicious cookies with coconut and nuts. I can't resist.

The ride through the winding canals back to La Pavona is relaxing and dreamily beautiful. The journey is the destination. I even see a little crocodile lying on a sandbank in the sun.

Our little Jimmy is still there and after a delicious cappuccino we head towards La Fortuna. The approximately 3-hour drive takes us through Caiari, Guapiles to Ruta 32, and then on Ruta 4 to La Fortuna. On the way to Ruta 32 near Guapiles, we are again accompanied by huge banana plantations on both sides of the road.

Ruta 4 is very challenging to drive. The road is narrow and the numerous oncoming trucks are a challenge, especially when there is also a pedestrian, a cyclist, or a slow moped rider at the roadside and the trucks veer dangerously close onto my lane.

The landscape gradually changes. The previously dominant banana plantations give way to pineapple plantations and thanks to Wikipedia, we learn how a pineapple actually grows. Interesting. I genuinely did not know this before.

And then we finally see it on the horizon .... the distinctive cone of the Arenal Volcano.

Shortly before La Fortuna, we make a stop in the small town of Muelle. At the Centro Turístico Las Iguanas, hundreds of wild green iguanas live in the trees right next to the road bridge and the restaurant terrace. The place is different than I imagined, as is so often the case here in Costa Rica, but we actually see the iguanas in the trees.

We continue on to La Fortuna. The charming little town lies at the foot of the majestic, conical Arenal Volcano and is the undisputed action and nature center of Costa Rica, known for jungle adventures, wildlife watching, and especially wellness in hot springs.

The Arenal Volcano is a 1,670-meter-high, highly active (currently dormant) stratovolcano. It shapes the entire landscape. The last significant eruption phase ended in 2010. Climbing to the crater is strictly prohibited for safety reasons, but the trails at the foot of the volcano are world-famous. We are lucky, as the cone of the volcano is usually shrouded in clouds.

We have booked an apartment or a small house in La Fortuna via Booking.com, and after some searching, we finally find the address of the house. There is no one there, but the gate and the path to the apartment, which is located in the backyard of a residential building, are open. Strange. I text the landlord that we are here and receive the code to the entrance door a few minutes later. Great, everything is going super well with the accommodations so far.

The apartment is modern by Costa Rican standards, apparently built only recently, the Wi-Fi password suggests a date in 2023, almost luxurious, but it lacks a little in kitchen equipment.

We just want to quickly hop into the supermarket to stock up on essentials for the next few days, before we treat ourselves to a relaxing bath in the thermal springs 'Las Thermalitas del Arenal'. Upon arriving at the fruit store, the sky opens up, and it thunders and lightens. We first seek shelter in the nearest bar, have a drink, and wait out the downpour.

Unfortunately, the thunderstorm does not stop, and we are unable to go to the thermal springs, which are outside. We make ourselves comfortable in our apartment, cook vegetables with spaghetti, write, read, and relax a bit. The rain does not stop all evening; it’s a little depressing.