La Fortuna - Arenal 1968

11.6.2026 La Fortuna - Arenal Volcano and Las Thermalitas del Arenal

After a night of rain and the weather forecast promising little good, we wake up with mixed feelings. But .... it's sunny, the sky is blue, and the Arenal appears almost without a cloud cover. We are so lucky 😀

After a delicious homemade breakfast with oatmeal and fruits (not quite as tasty as at Cabinas Arecife in Cahuita, what is the secret ingredient?), we set off on a hike on the lava fields in the private reserve Arenal 1968.

The private reserve Arenal 1968 is a nature and hiking park located at the foot of the Arenal Volcano, offering well-developed trails, special viewpoints, private thermal pools, and recreational activities. The park was established on the historic lava fields from the eruption on July 29, 1968, and it impressively demonstrates how nature has reclaimed volcanic rock over decades.

First, we pay our entrance fee of USD 28.00 at the ticket booth in the parking lot and receive a wristband. The lady at the ticket counter very kindly and thoroughly explains the possible hiking trails; there are three options that differ in length, but all start out the same. We can take hiking poles with us, although we had envisioned them a little differently.

Our approximately 5.4 km long hike on the longest trail 'Forest 1968' begins pleasantly through a beautiful rainforest featuring an unbelievably gigantic tree with enormous roots.

However, soon the sweaty climb over the solidified black lava fields begins up to the viewpoint. From there, we enjoy a breathtaking panoramic view of the majestic volcano and the Arenal Lake, which we take in peacefully after the German tour group finally leaves.

We then descend over uneven volcanic rock and steep steps into the dense, vibrant secondary rainforest with giant ferns. Unfortunately, we do not see or hear any toucans or howler monkeys that are supposedly present here. It is intensely green, with many mosses on the trees, and at times it is eerily quiet, with no sound to be heard.

We are quite exhausted; the trail was strenuous, and the heat was overwhelming. We drag ourselves the last few meters to the restaurant and can hardly absorb the informative signs about herbs and fruit trees. Although they are very interesting, I see for the first time a mango tree and a coffee bush. Many beautiful colorful flowers also grow along the way.

The Lava 68 Café Bar located directly on the slope offers a panoramic view of the volcano and Arenal Lake. We simply collapse into the provided lounge chairs and enjoy an iced coffee latte. It feels so good, and the park was definitely worth it; I had the right instinct.

Back in our vacation apartment, we want to rest briefly and eat something before heading to the La Fortuna waterfall. I had booked tickets for 3 PM the previous day to secure the relatively late time slot. Just after we arrive at the apartment, the heavens open again. It pours for the next two hours—no, it doesn't just rain; it pours like buckets. Visiting the waterfall, which requires descending 510 steps, does not seem advisable in such heavy rain. I check if I can possibly reschedule the tickets and find that I did reserve but did not activate the payment link, rendering the booking void. Very convenient. It doesn't make sense or sound fun in this weather.

At 4 PM, the rain has mostly stopped, and we set out for the thermal springs Las Thermalitas del Arenal, recommended by Jessica as a budget-friendly alternative to expensive wellness facilities. The facility is much simpler and less stylized than luxury spas like Tabacón but is favored for its laid-back, authentic atmosphere. It is especially used by many Costa Rican families on weekends.

On the spacious, green grounds, there are about 15 to 18 natural thermal pools with varying temperatures – from pleasantly warm to very hot (52 degrees) – as well as a cooler pool for refreshing. We pay around €8 for entry and relax for the next two hours in the different pools. It's wonderfully relaxing, especially after the strenuous hike this morning.

Later, we eat delicious grilled fish with potatoes and ... yay .... vegetables at 'Nene's.' However, everything is - as often - quite greasy.

When we return to our vacation apartment, we cannot get the door open. It is secured with a code, but the mechanism seems stuck. What to do? I message the landlord, who obviously does not read the message immediately. Since the landlord's mother lives in the front house, my friend simply knocks on the door. I wouldn't have dared, as it’s already dark in the house, and she might be asleep. But after a second firm knock, she opens and lets us into our apartment with a key. Phew, what a scare in the evening.