Arrival in Monteverde

7.11.2026 Arrival in Monteverde and Manakin Waterfalls

Upon waking up, it is raining, and we take our time having breakfast and packing. Today we are heading to Santa Elena/Monteverde. We have now scratched the La Fortuna waterfall from our to-do list, as it is raining and we want to visit the Manakin waterfalls behind Tileran before heading up to Monteverde. One waterfall a day and going down and up about 500 steps is enough.

As we set off, the rain has stopped, and I look forward to the scenic drive around Lake Arenal. Lake Arenal is the largest artificial lake in Costa Rica at the foot of the Arenal Volcano and is not only a central supplier of hydropower but also a popular destination for water sports. At the dam, we still have a great view over the lake, but on the further route, the term scenic drive does not apply to me as there is no view of the lake and hardly any stopping opportunities. Once we stop in the middle of the road because the view is spectacular, and we are lucky that the car with tourists behind us feels the same way.

In the small town of Nuevo Arenal, we stop at the German bakery to get coffee, pretzels, and poppy seed rolls. There seem to be many Germans here, as there are further signs featuring schnitzels and currywurst.

That was a silly idea because just 10 km further comes the much-praised Café Macademia. The family-run café high above Lake Arenal has a cozy terrace, stylishly covered with macadamia nuts, offering a spectacular panoramic view over the lake. Here you can enjoy freshly baked cinnamon rolls, typical Costa Rican dishes, and the famous Café con Macademia. Unfortunately, I am still too full from the German bakery, but the view, despite the fog, is phenomenal.

We continue on to Tileran, the last chance to refuel before heading into the mountains to Monteverde. The road gets narrower, windier, and the potholes increase. Soon we reach the Manakin waterfalls, formerly known as Viento Fresco Waterfalls, a real insider tip for those who prefer to experience Costa Rica's waterfalls without the hustle and bustle of tour buses. The privately held reserve has been family-run for generations and protects a biodiverse transition zone between tropical mountain and dry forest, where, with a bit of luck, toucans, monkeys, and the colorful Manakin birds can be spotted while the entrance fees directly contribute to the preservation of the forest.

We are warmly welcomed by the owner and learn, among other things, why the name changed from Viento Fresco Waterfalls to Manakin Waterfalls. Initially, we walk along a dirt road until we reach the trail to the so-called Meetingpoint, which was previously the parking lot for the entrance to the hike to the waterfalls. The landscape has completely changed, with steep green meadows and pasture hills.

A well-secured path first leads us down to the original meeting point. Afterwards, we proceed down numerous steps into the green river valley to four impressive waterfalls. The descent is somewhat strenuous, and my knees are protesting, with steep steps, and quite a few of them.

Wow, what a fascinating hike. The path was really worth it. In total, we descended about 600 steps; we counted them. Especially the third waterfall, Rainbow Waterfall, is a fascinating, chill place that invites you to linger longer. We take a longer break there, enjoying the fact that we are alone and simply observing the captivating nature, the beautiful flowers, the many butterflies, and the breathtaking waterfall—a wow moment that I will remember for a long time. The 250 meters and who knows how many steps to the fourth waterfall, we do not continue because the path to here has been very strenuous and we also have to go back up.

Somehow, we manage and reach the 525 steps back to the meeting point. Sweaty, very strenuous. Along the way, I encounter a toad that is just as startled as I am and quickly attempts to climb up the hill.

Upon arriving at the meeting point, we try to call the operator who offers a shuttle service using the saved phone number. Unfortunately, we forgot to log into the Wi-Fi before starting the hike, so we are unable to reach anyone by phone. To my friends' dismay, it means we have to continue hiking up until we have internet again. When the trail meets the road, we finally have internet access, and I arrange for the long-awaited shuttle. During the ride back to the reception, our driver shows us an Eye Lashed Viper coiled on a branch by the roadside, and smaller than expected.

That was a great experience; we were alone without tourist crowds and saw captivating nature. I can only recommend this trip to anyone traveling in the region.

As if the potholes weren't enough, it now also steeply rises. In tight, often completely unclear hairpin turns, we wind our way higher into the mountains of Tilarán, struggling to keep the car in first or second gear, while on our right, the slopes drop steeply, and the views become more spectacular with each meter gained. Now I can understand the advice not to drive here in the dark.

However, it becomes even more adventurous. The road to our vacation apartment is a muddy, uneven track littered with potholes and bumps, and definitely only recommended for four-wheel drive and higher Jeeps. A challenge and definitely only to be driven in daylight, at least for us.

However, the location of the vacation apartment Magic Place is truly extraordinary, and the view from the terrace is breathtakingly beautiful; you can see all the way to the Pacific Ocean in the Bay of Nicoya.

Since it's almost dark again and we both do not want to drive the car anymore, we cook vegetables with spaghetti in the vacation apartment, our new favorite dish, to fulfill our vegetable needs. In the middle of cooking, the gas suddenly runs out, and the spaghetti are just floating in boiling water. The incredibly nice landlord quickly comes to the rescue, and after a 30-minute pause, we can continue cooking.

Meanwhile, it is raining heavily, but since we know how quickly the weather changes here, we don't worry about our trip to the Santa Elena reserve tomorrow.