Tortuguero

4.11.2026 Tortuguero - Cerro Tortuguero

in a completely relaxed morning without a tour and waking up stress. I was so exhausted yesterday that I finally managed to sleep through the night and only checked my phone at 7:30. It felt really good and was desperately needed.

After a cozy breakfast with pancakes, scrambled eggs, fruits, and coffee, we walk into the village and admire the beautiful colors of the houses, butterflies, and plants along the way.

At the boat dock, we wait for the public boat to San Francisco, from where we will start our ascent to Cerro Tortuguero. I had to purchase the National Park entrance ticket online in advance through the official SINTAC homepage.

Pura Vida, the captain is still leisurely enjoying his ice cream before we almost leave on time at 10:45. The trip actually takes 10 minutes, but we stop at various points to pick up passengers, let some off, or just to drop off a drill. SLOWLY... Everything in peace. Pura Vida.

None of the stops look like the town of San Francisco or the entrance to the National Park, so we just stay seated until the final stop, which seems to be in no man’s land. No sign of a dock or pier, we just stop at the shore. After some difficult communication with the captain, we have a vague idea of where to go and where we can board later. We follow the concrete path into the dense rainforest and eventually find it, the steps for the ascent to Cerro Tortuguero.

According to the travel guide, there are supposedly 400 steps; it is hot, humid, and the air humidity is at 90%, making it all very sweaty. I just wonder where the entrance to the National Park is or where the ticket I purchased online will be checked. We can just walk up. In front of us is a family of four making such noise that it sounds like a whole tour bus is on the way.

Right on the first steps, we find a little strawberry frog; they are so cute but also very tiny.

Continuing up the stairs, it is fascinating to look down at the rainforest and the trees from above or to be on the same level as the treetops. A change of perspective. Ultimately, there may only be about 300 steps; I didn’t count, but definitely 119 m, because Cerro Tortuguero is at approximately 119 m the highest elevation along the otherwise completely flat Caribbean coast and an extinct volcano amidst the dense rainforest.

Once at the top, we are presented with a unique panoramic view of the complex canal system of Tortuguero, the dense tropical rainforest on one side, and the Caribbean Sea on the other.

Above us in the tree, a capuchin monkey swings, unfazed by the people on the platform.

The ascent was definitely worth it. Unfortunately, the platform soon fills up with two tour groups, and we quickly begin our descent again.

Back down, we walk the one kilometer to the town of San Francisco. The official path through the National Park, an approximately 2.1 to 2.5 km long trail (round trip) over an elevated concrete or wooden walkway through the humid lowland rainforest, is closed for renovation, so we take the pathway along the beach, just as the captain explained to us. We can’t really identify a proper town, but we do find the turn-off to the boat dock, though calling it a dock is an overstatement this year. At the bar by the dock, we get a drink, as we have to wait 45 minutes for the boat. Great view, cool reggae music, awesome weather, blue sky, delicious pineapple shake... Pura Vida.

The boat arrives 30 minutes before the actual departure time, and the captain, by the way the same one from the outbound journey, takes a break in the bar ... Pura Vida.

Back in Tortuguero, I treat myself to a 60-minute massage at the spa center on the main street. The massage is amazing, very relaxing for muscles and soul, and just feels good. Unfortunately, I don’t have enough money with me, and the card reader is 15 minutes away in the Mawamba Lodge, but no problem, I can simply bring the remaining money over later.

Back at the hotel, we head out for a walk on the Pacific beach. There are relatively many people around, maybe searching for the baby turtles that hatch this time of year and seek their way to the sea at dusk. There are even two stalls on the beach selling fresh coconut water.

We don’t get very far because we need to be back in town by 4:30 for the sundowner at the canal. We find a cozy spot in the Buddha Bar right by the canal and enjoy the sunset with a cold Imperial beer. The sunset isn’t particularly overwhelming, but the approaching thunderstorm with lightning and thunder and the pitch-black sky is all the more spectacular.

For dinner, we finally go to Mi Ninjo, which was closed last night but was recommended to us by Jessica. I have chicken in Caribbean coconut milk sauce with salad and oven-baked potatoes, a very tasty alternative and not as greasy and deep-fried as the night before; however, I still miss vegetables.

Power outages happen repeatedly for a short time, but thanks to emergency lighting and the gas stove, we still get our delicious meal. However, the most amazing part is the noise when the power goes out and then comes back... I feel like the whole village is murmuring and grumbling and yelling.

Early at 8:00 pm, we return to the hotel, and while chilling and writing in the nice air-conditioned room, the power finally goes out for good. Bam. No internet, no air conditioning, no light, and no water... all that's left is to wish a good night.