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Freedom hero, hiking on Caprera and our search for an open gas station in Sardinia

Published: 21.10.2022

On our last day, we drove with our rental car to the island of La Maddalena, which we had already explored on foot.


Ferry ride to La Maddalena
Ferry ride to La Maddalena


However, we continued directly by car over the bridge to the neighboring island of Caprera, which is mostly a nature reserve.


Caprera
Caprera


Since we had already learned that opening hours are very limited here in the autumn, we first headed to the house of the freedom fighter Giuseppe Garibaldi.


Garibaldi House
Garibaldi House


The national hero, who fought for the liberation and unification of Italy, lived there from 1856 until his death in 1882.


Garibaldi Estate
Garibaldi Estate


In the parking lot, we also met some of the island's animal residents:


Pigs at the Garibaldi Estate
Pigs at the Garibaldi Estate


Two free-roaming pigs had made themselves comfortable in the sun, and there were stray cats all around the souvenir stand (which were also fed there).


Cat on the souvenir stand
Cat on the souvenir stand


Some of the animals had also found a spot on the stand and sat between tablecloths and cork souvenirs in the shade.


Garibaldi Estate
Path to the Garibaldi Estate


After this brief glimpse into Italian history, we set out to explore nature on Caprera.


Hike to Monte Tejalone
Hike to Monte Tejalone


We started with a hike to Monte Tejalone for a good overview.


Hike to Monte Tejalone
Hike to Monte Tejalone


From the top, we had a beautiful panoramic view over Caprera and to the neighboring island of La Maddalena.


Hike to Monte Tejalone
Hike to Monte Tejalone


In the past, Caprera had military lookout points, the remains of which we saw on all our hikes.


Hike to Monte Tejalone
Hike to Monte Tejalone


Steps still led to the highest point of the mountain. There, we made ourselves comfortable for a picnic at noon with a view.


Hike to Monte Tejalone
Hike to Monte Tejalone


Next, we drove a bit further north to a slightly longer hike that started at the Garibaldi Monument. We didn't want to visit this second museum on the island because the multimedia exhibition was only offered in Italian.


Hiking on Caprera
Hiking on Caprera


Over somewhat rough paths (which are supposedly suitable for wheelchair users with three companions...) we headed to the north coast.


North coast of Caprera
North coast of Caprera


We particularly liked the rock formations on the island and the different vegetation during the hike.


Hike on the north coast of Caprera
Hike on the north coast of Caprera


Twice we also saw wild goats climbing over the rocks, but they didn't seem to mind us too much.


Hike on the north coast of Caprera
Hike on the north coast of Caprera


Their counterparts met us again as soon as we returned to the road with the car: They stood by the roadside and watched the passing tourists.


Goats by the roadside
Goats by the roadside


After a short coffee break in a small snack bar in the forest, we drove to the starting point for our last hike.


Drive over Caprera
Drive over Caprera


The route started near the beach and initially led uphill.


Hike to Cala Serena
Hike to Cala Serena


On the way, we saw the old fortress where the second museum about Garibaldi is now housed.


Hike to Cala Serena - View of the fort
Hike to Cala Serena - View of the fort


The path then led us back to the coast, where we passed several small beaches in different bays.


Hike to Cala Serena
Hike to Cala Serena


The marking of the path was not quite as good, so that at one point we realized that we had taken a wrong turn only after crossing a small 'river' and climbing over rocks.


Hike to Cala Serena
Hike to Cala Serena


But in the end, we managed to get back to our car, even though it was a bit rocky.


Hike to Cala Serena
Hike to Cala Serena


We still had some time left and wanted to drive along the panoramic road of La Maddalena one more time.


La Maddalena
La Maddalena


Part of the road runs directly along the coast, so you have a beautiful view of the bays and the water.


La Maddalena
La Maddalena


Before we took the ferry back, we wanted to quickly refuel. Unfortunately, the first gas station that Google suggested turned out to be for boats only... So we drove another kilometer, where an Esso gas station was marked on the map. When we got there, an Italian told us that they were on strike today... So we decided to take the ferry back to Palau and look for a gas station there because we had to return the car with a full tank in the evening.


Return trip to Palau
Return trip to Palau


Arriving in Palau, we still had 45 minutes until the return time. We went to one of the two gas stations (of course, the Esso gas station was also closed here) and found that the machine wasn't working. We waited somewhat undecided, wondering if our lack of Italian skills was the problem. But when several locals arrived, tapped on the screen wildly, and then shrugged and left, we gave up hope.

We now had about half an hour left and the next gas station was in another town - about 12 minutes away by car. I quickly went to the car rental office to explain our problem and then we quickly drove to the gas station, hoping that it was open...

Fortunately, we were able to refuel there and made it back to the car rental agency 7 minutes before the return time.

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