From Dole to Besançon, 2 stages, stop at the Thoraise Navigation Tunnel
On our next leg to Besançon, we faced 11 hours of travel time for 55.07 km and 17 locks. However, knowing that the tunnel in Besançon is currently closed and that we had to...


Published: 11.06.2025
















The approach to Besançon, the Doubs Valley becomes narrower with each kilometer we cover, cliffs accompany us, and ultimately the view of the Citadel opens up before us at the entrance to the Doubs loop.
We cover the last kilometers at reduced speed, keeping an eye on the depth gauge. A navigation depth of 1.30 m is indicated, so we are significantly more cautious and can observe the activity on the shore. Families, students, and tourists are everywhere along the banks. Ultimately, I can confirm that the 1.30 m navigation depth is indeed only relevant in the area of the Port Fluvial Halte Saint-Paul. But even here, our depth gauge consistently shows sufficient water beneath the keel.
At the end of the harbor is the lock L'écluse de St. Paul, no. 50. Here, manual labor is required. Fortunately, we positioned ourselves right before the entrance to the lock. After a brief consideration and study of the available information, we spring into action. We close the sluices and the upper gates. While we are at work, a woman and a student come to help us. My first officer is informed that this needs to be quick, behind us is a tourist ship waiting that has booked the lock.
With combined efforts, as we had already done some preliminary work, the two of them took care of the rest of the work, and quickly we passed the obstacle.
Immediately after exiting the lock comes the long dock, and we stop quite at the beginning of the dock.
However, this turned out not to be a good idea, as right by the shore, the students from the conservatory had set up a stage, and the music quickly started. The first sound was awful, but I don’t want to be too harsh on the young people. Once, I attended a concert by Britney Spears with my daughter, which was indeed loud but melodic; here, however, I had the impression that all modern artists met and performed together, each playing their own piece, and due to the volume, it came out to the point that the membranes of the bass were just colliding.
My first officer was on the lookout for a spot in the front area of the dock, and lo and behold, there was one. We started and docked further ahead; a boat in front of us had also decided to trade the free entry for a quieter spot.
Besançon, here we come; first on the agenda for the next day was shopping and a cheese factory on the plateau.
