a quiet little spot
We were 'driven' here by the current and upcoming weather.


Published: 10.06.2025
























and after a great breakfast, today's plan is a short trip to Vik i Myrdal. The wind is still whipping across the land with gusts between 70 and 90 km/h, and we experience a sandstorm as we pass the moss-covered lava fields and traverse through Eldhraun, which reaches into the interior of the Sputnik through every crack.
We leave the Ring Road at Myrdalssandur and make a small detour into the moon-like landscape of Eldhraun, heading towards the sand and dust clouds until we reach a small historic stone house. The track disappears into loose sand, and we decide to turn back and continue towards our original destination for the day. Just before Vik i Myrdal, the sky clears up and gives us a wonderful view of the picturesque town under a shining blue sky. We want to take advantage of the low tide and drive directly to the black beach with the sneaker waves of 'Reynisfjara'.
The warning light shows yellow 'Caution', but the sea is showing its calm side, and the number of visitors is still limited, nicely spread out over the expansive beach.
Many visitors capture the sight of the basalt columns on the black beach, and only a few stroll north along the beach to get a better view of the 'petrified trolls' in the sea.
We let ourselves drift, capturing some wonderful shots, collecting small colorful gems, stranded crustaceans, laying on the sun-warmed black stones, and enjoying the sun.
After a few hours of wandering and lounging, we decide not to visit the DC3 wreck and head to Dyrholeay, the hole island with a lighthouse and wonderful views.
From up here, we see how far north the strong wind still carries the black sand and dust far out to sea. Puffins are out on the water at this time, so we watch the intricate flight maneuvers of the seagulls and the play of the waves far below us.
Off the main paths, we follow a small trail to the back of the rock and enjoy the seclusion and soft moss.
It's time for a coffee, so we look for a sheltered spot in Vik i Myrdal near the beautiful beach of fine black sand. After a delicious coffee, we wander a little along the beach before we run some errands and check out the campsite.
On our way back to Kirkjubaejarklaustur, the sign for 'Pakgil' catches our eye; we read about the small campground in an enchanted canyon during our preparations and want to see if we can reach it, possibly with a trailer as well; so turn on the left blinker and head down the initially well-maintained track, behind us is an XXL class pickup with a horse trailer and a second SUV. The two are doing quite well, and we go 60 on the gravel and over some sheep grids, passing two farms before we glimpse the vast highland after a steep ascent.
I keep an eye out for a suitable inlet so that the two behind us are not further 'delayed', and we continue our journey in a more leisurely manner.
A good 5 kilometers later, both have veered off the track into the open area and can only be seen in the distance.
The track winds through towering rocks with troll faces, and the ride feels like a roller coaster; behind a 'Blind Head', it turns sharply right without warning, causing our pulse to spike momentarily.
At the end of the track, we find the little campground in the enchanted canyon and several familiar faces or vehicles from Skaftafel.
On the way back, the evening sun shines in our faces and 'paints' more troll faces in the rocks.
What a wonderful piece of earth we get to explore and experience here ...
