Island with Kids in a Camper – Our Family Adventure

The idea to travel to Iceland came to my husband, Eric, and me, Susanne, over seven years ago. Then came Corona and then our daughter… so we planned this special trip six years later. With two small children (Nala 6 and Leo 2 years) in a motorhome. Nine days, eight full days, mainly heading south.

September 8: Arrival at Keflavik Airport - Seljalandsfoss - Vìk Camping

We started early in the morning from Frankfurt. The flight was really uncomplicated, as the kids could watch something on the plane, and we had various games with us. The time passed in no time!

After arriving at Keflavik Airport, we had to wait an hour until we were taken to our motorhome. We waited another hour until everything was sorted out and the motorhome was explained to us. All in all, it went smoothly.

Tip: Take videos and pictures of the motorhome beforehand!

Leo fell asleep at the airport and Nala was very tired. We danced in the sun at the airport - the weather is fantastic!!! 🥰

Both managed the waiting time really well! Sure, they were impatient, but who likes to wait… not me either 😅

Off to the supermarket! A quick shopping, we got the essentials! Off we go with good mood music and very tired kids in our “new home” for the next eight days towards Vík!

Leo commanded Eric when we started driving, “Dad, give it all!”

The landscape is spectacular.

As the weather is great today, we will stop at the Seljalandsfoss waterfall.

We walked directly to the waterfall. In brilliant sunshine, we admired it with a rainbow! Magnificent! We walked behind the waterfall, danced on the side of it, and got completely soaked. But the kids had an incredible amount of fun, and it was well worth it!

Afterward, we drove to the campsite in Vìk and set up. Eric made Bolognese, and the long day (three hours less sleep and two hours time difference) ended with everyone falling asleep quickly.

By the way: the weather was so wonderful that even the Icelanders said they rarely experience it!

September 9: Waterfalls Day - Gljúfrabúi - Skógafoss and Reynisfjara Black Beach - second night at Vìk Camping

Fortunately, we have the kids with us, and the day starts early. Due to the time change, Leo was already awake at 5:45, so we all started our day at 6:30. Unfortunately, the weather was not as nice anymore, but I think it was fitting for Iceland!

After breakfast, I jogged through Vìk while the kids enjoyed the swings at the campsite until I came back and took a shower.

Vìk is a very lovely little town 😍

Then we set off towards the second waterfall, Gljúfrabúi! You walk through a gorge until you can see it! Challenging because you have to balance over stones. Eric carrying Leo and I holding Nala's hand. If you slip, you’ll be in the water and possibly have wet feet! But everything went well, and this waterfall was simply gigantic!

Afterward, we drove to Skógafoss waterfall. After Nala's mood wasn’t quite so good anymore, she decided to go all the way to the front and stand right in front of the waterfall with us! That was quite gigantic, loud, and when a surge came down, you got wet again, and there was such extreme wind that you had to be careful not to fall! Especially the kids! But they had so much fun and showed no signs of fear! Leo, at two years old, did everything so well!

We know how quickly Nala's mood can go from “I don't want to anymore; it's too loud, too wet, and too cold” to “that was so great, how wet I am and the wind almost blew me away...”!

After that, we continued to Reynisfjara black beach. How the waves crash against the basalt columns is also very impressive!

A dance under the columns was a must! The kids discovered many different stones. Since we told them the stones belong to the elves, they could only take one or two special ones.

Then we went back to Vìk, where we parked the camper and went out for a bite to eat.

After burgers, fries, and chicken nuggets, we went to the Lava Show in Vìk. We learned a lot about Iceland's volcanoes and watched a live lava show. Leo was getting sleepier, but he held on, even wearing the protective glasses they had to put on! Nala, of course, did too. Even though everything was in English, they listened with interest and persisted!

It was quite expensive for about 45 minutes, and I think we wouldn’t have watched it without the kids. But in retrospect, the kids talked a lot about it. So it was worth it!

We ask every evening what they liked best about the day, and often there are quite different things than we would have said. Among other things, the Lava Show was mentioned that day.

Afterward, we had a short walk in the rain to our motorhome. There was still rice pudding, which Nala had wished for as dessert, and then it was off to bed!

September 10: Destination Diamond Beach Jökulsárlón, Skaftafell Camping

We started the day a bit later (6:15). Unfortunately, it had rained quite heavily all night.

After breakfast, we set off towards Jökulsárlón. About a 2-hour drive. On the way, we stopped at a small waterfall and stretched our legs for a bit. It was still raining. Leo often asked where we were going now and if we were going home... But he seemed satisfied when we told him where we were heading and what we were going to do next, and he didn't cry or say he wanted to go home.

Upon arriving at Jökulsárlón, we first made ourselves some soup. After that, we walked to the glacier lagoon where the giant icebergs float in the water. When we drove there, I had already seen some from afar through the mountains, and I was almost shocked at how massive they looked and briefly gasped so that everyone else looked at me with wide eyes. But it was simply unbelievable; I had not imagined it like this 😅

These icebergs are just gigantic! We also saw seals! Nala and Leo immediately “talked” to them by trying to mimic them!

Next, we drove one parking lot further to Diamond Beach. Just a short drive in the car, without changing clothes, since the drive took less than five minutes. At Diamond Beach, the small ice chunks are washed ashore by the glacier. They lie like little diamonds on the beach. The kids had a blast! They tried to see how ice tastes and licked on a few pieces. Chinese people were taking pictures of it...!

A dance with the diamonds on the black beach was essential!

Back in the motorhome, we made our way to our next campsite in Skaftafell.

Upon arrival, there was a piece of cake and a cookie at the campsite, then a shower, dinner, played Uno, and then off to bed. It rained heavily all night.

September 11: Glacier Svínafellsjökull - Crêpe in Vìk - Drive to Skjól

Waking early again, the sky was clearer, and the sun partially came out. So, we set off early for the glacier Svínafellsjökull. It is the backdrop for the Game of Thrones series (which we had passed a few already...). Since we were there relatively early, we were almost alone. From afar, it simply looks incredible. But when you get closer and stand in front of it, it's indescribable. Even in pictures, it cannot convey the same feeling. The forces of nature… chunks of ice float in front of the glacier. 20 years ago, the glacier reached almost to the road, but today you have a short path to walk before you arrive.

Also, there are patches of carpet everywhere. When a film was shot there, the vehicles with the equipment had to be taken to the foot of the glacier, for which they laid out the carpet. Unfortunately, they just left the carpet behind and didn’t take it back. They are increasingly buried under the rubble, and when we were there, there was a park ranger cutting the carpet scraps out of the rubble to restore the natural state. It’s sad how nature is disregarded for a blockbuster…

Afterward, we drove back toward Vìk. On the way, we stopped for gas, had a small snack, and coffee. We still had almost a two-hour drive ahead of us. In Vìk, we did a quick shopping for the essentials, wrote and sent postcards. Then we got a crepe from a small but well-known food truck. A whopping 30€ for two crepes. One with ham and cheese and one with banana, Nutella, and cookies. But they were quite delicious!

And now we set off well-fed toward Skjól. Another two and a half hours of driving!

In between, it poured rain, and the next moment we had sunshine! Just typical Iceland!

The new campsite is currently more of a construction site. Besides a toilet container and a reception that also serves as a restaurant, which looks very nice and cozy, there was nothing (yet). Also, no hot water and no showers. We’ll manage though. I found the parking spot nice. It had a view of the vast expanse. Plus, it lies next to a riding school, which is quite small but totally beautiful! The kids could stretch their legs on the site until Eric sorted everything out and parked. Then we went towards the horses. The stable operators were very nice. We were allowed to look at and pet the Icelandic horses. Nala is now even more excited about our ride the day after tomorrow! I also saw for the first time how a dog drove the horses to the field.

In the motorhome, we played, ate, and got the kids to bed. Eric and I played Uno and checked if we might have a chance for northern lights that night.

We watched a series and I tried to stay awake, looking outside every now and then. However, my eyes kept closing. Suddenly Nala dreamt and woke us up. When I went to her, Eric looked out the window and actually saw northern lights. Nala and I immediately looked out the roof window of the camper and saw them too! They were breathtaking! Glowing green in the sky. When we got dressed and went outside, they had already dimmed a bit. It was only a few minutes in between. It was amazing to see! Also an experience for Nala. We want to try to stay awake longer again the next evening. I actually needed a little while to fall asleep. This trip and the impressions fill me with so much happiness that I had to cry several times. With this feeling, I fell asleep.

September 12: Gullfoss - Geysir & Strokkur - Þingvellir - Secret Lagoon - second night Skjól Camping

Today, the day started a bit later… around 7:00 we got up. The weather was lovely! Not a cloud in the sky but pretty cold and it had frozen overnight.

After breakfast, we headed toward Gullfoss. As we are often so early, we're lucky that there isn’t much traffic. The waterfall is gigantic, with the gorge included. With the sun and blue sky, it's simply unique! From there we called my nephew, wished him a happy birthday, and shared our experience with him, my sister, niece, and other nephew!

Next stop: Geysir & Strokkur. The kids were getting a bit tired, and Nala was briefly cranky. That changed abruptly when we stood in front of Strokkur and it suddenly erupted, and we all got startled. After waiting 8–10 minutes, we weren’t any less startled when it erupted again. It’s really hard to tell when it will erupt or if it gives any warning. This one “spits” 25-30 meters high. A few meters further is the geyser. It erupts unpredictably and only during earthquakes. And even then, maybe! But when it does, it can go up to about 80 meters high. Apart from these two, there’s only one in the US which erupts up to 150 meters high. Very impressive. After taking photos and videos and a small snack, we drove toward Þingvellir National Park.

Þingvellir National Park is a famous UNESCO world heritage site where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet.

In the fissure, one can dive up to 120 meters deep. The water is crystal clear, and we watched many divers. The vastness of nature is truly wonderful to behold! After an hour-long walk, we made our way to the Secret Lagoon. We had made a reservation. As everywhere, there weren’t many people. They limit the number of people so it is never crowded. We booked an hour, but half an hour was enough with the kids. But it was super pleasant… for me as I don’t mind warmth or in this case, heat. Eric and Nala found it a bit too warm. Leo and I found it nice. Since the sun was still shining, it was really lovely.

Perfectly in time for dinner, we drove back to the campsite, where we then went out to eat.

The kids jumped on the trampoline again before we had pizza for me and Leo, lamb soup for Nala, and fish and potato casserole for Eric!

So after three rounds of UNO, they quickly fell asleep.

September 13: Reykjavík - Riding Tour - Reykjavík Camping

The day started at 5:00 for me, as Nala woke me up because she wasn't feeling well. Fever and stomach aches. Actually, we had booked the riding tour with Ishestar in Reykjavík for 10:00. So the plan was to leave at 7:00. Of course, Leo could have slept longer today...

We set off relatively on time. Nala still running a fever and getting sick on the way. Lots of possibilities and considerations were running through our heads and how we could possibly rearrange things. She was most looking forward to riding. However, riding for two hours at 10:00 wouldn’t work in her state.

So far, the planning had been top-notch, and everything had worked out! But you can’t plan sickness, and the important thing was that she felt better. So we couldn't change anything right at that moment. Keeping calm, keeping Leo entertained, and giving Nala some rest!

So, we drove to the farm, and Eric could talk to the very nice lady there, and we were able to keep things a bit open-ended. 10:00 was canceled, and we initially planned for 13:00 for a one-hour tour. Although she said if she could ride, she would recommend a two-hour tour with a trot and tölt. So if she felt better, we could either do one hour at 13:00 or two hours at 14:00.

Nala lay down to sleep for a bit, and we hoped she would feel better. If it didn’t work at all, I could do the two-hour tour alone at 14:00.

So it meant waiting and hoping 🙏

Around noon, she was feeling increasingly better, and she wanted to do the long tour at 14:00! For Eric and Leo, that meant a longer wait. But the weather wasn’t good anyway, so the two made themselves comfortable in the motorhome while Nala and I could ride.

I also sat on an Icelandic horse for the first time, and it felt different, but it was fun. We must have been out for about two hours, and in the end, I could have booked an even more advanced tour since Nala had no problems at all! She also did superbly time-wise!

A bit chilled, we finally went to the campsite. Actually, Reykjavík was planned for that afternoon, but we wouldn’t do that anymore. Rest, watch a movie, eat, and then to bed.

During the night, Nala developed a fever again. But after a tablet, she quickly fell asleep again, and the fever did not rise anymore.

September 14: Reykjavík - City - Whale watching - second night Reykjavík Camping

After we slept until 7 o'clock, we didn't make any stress. Nala was fever-free and felt significantly better. The kids had breakfast first, and I went for a jog. The weather was great again! Sun, blue sky, and not feeling very cold. A lap around the campsite, past the zoo and botanical garden, made for a nice 3km round.

Then we showered, got the kids dressed, got ready, and then took the 15-minute bus ride into Reykjavík. There, we looked around the city, and the kids got to take home a whale plush toy as a souvenir (finally according to Nala!)

Reykjavík has a nice little city center. The church has a special architecture, and we particularly liked the colorful 🌈 houses and streets in the small alleys! In a special café, Café Babalú, we had our first or second breakfast! There, I drink a delicious(!) latte macchiato for the first time!

Then it was time for whale watching. Since it took a while to get outside, the kids were actually getting a bit impatient. Leo got tired, and Nala felt unwell. We had travel sickness tablets with us, and since Eric couldn’t do well on deck, he stayed downstairs with the kids where it wasn’t rocking as much. From there, the whales could also be seen.

Leo saw some, and with Nala, I went back on deck, where, luckily, she also saw one. It required patience…

I stood outside a lot and was able to see quite a few. Really impressive animals!

Afterwards, she went down again and the travel-sickness tablet worked, and she got sleepy. Both of them also fell asleep until we got back to the harbor.

Our conclusion with the kids: the older one didn’t have much patience to watch outside. Leo was actually still too small, but they could stay inside and still see something! We booked the tour with Elding Whale Watching, and it was doable for kids! Otherwise, we would probably have booked a tour with a smaller boat!

Then we took the bus back to the campsite.

Once there, we packed and stored some things. Eric cooked noodles, and after the meal, we played Uno. Before going to bed, we measured Nala's temperature again, and unfortunately, she had fever again. This time 39.5. The highest yet. Throughout the day, she only complained about mild headaches but was fever-free. We called my mom's husband, who is a pediatrician, and he confirmed that we couldn't have done anything different from what we had already done. She received a painkiller for sleep, and we hoped it would go away soon!

Conclusion from Reykjavík:

We realized that we simply prefer the rural areas. Sure, you look at the city, but it’s just too loud, hectic, and crowded… the exact opposite of what we experienced in the previous days. Personally, it stresses me out again, and I'm looking forward to moving to a (hopefully) quieter place tomorrow.

In two days, we are flying home, and we could actually stay here for a while longer. I personally fear returning too quickly to the routine of daily life… here I can breathe so easily, enjoy this nature, and I never thought that this camper would suffice for living!

Nala said she wants to move to Iceland! Pack her room, take everything on the plane, and then move into a house here!

We all agreed with her!!

September 15: Last day, departure towards Reykjanes - Peninsula - Bridge Between Continents - Gunnuhver - Sandgerði - Campingplatz Grindavík

Nala slept through the night, had a bit of a fever in the morning but was relatively fit! We started before 9:00 towards Reykjanes. Leaving Reykjavik, we breathed a sigh of relief as we saw the lava fields again - back to nature 😍

The weather is fantastic! Sun and blue sky! So the last day can begin!

First, we drove to the Bridge Between Continents. It is a bridge that connects the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.

We had seen the same at Þingvellir National Park. Here you could stand under the bridge, while water flowed through in the national park.

Continuing toward Gunnuhver. Almost arriving, it already stank so badly in the car from sulfur..🤢

When we got out, it wasn’t better. We walked once to Gunnuhver. A thick cloud of smoke was rising from the ground, making it impossible to see the bubbling mud pots. But there was just a lot of steam. Nala said it covers the sun like clouds; so much was coming out. We didn’t stay there long.

Then we went directly toward Sandgerði. During the drive, tears came to my eyes once again because I, Eric agreed, really didn’t want to go home.

In Sandgerði, we visited a supermarket, picked up some snacks for the drive/flight tomorrow and finally got an ice cream for the kids.

Then we also went to the harbor and stretched our legs a bit. A little fishing harbor where we took our last picture and had a final dance in front of the boats.

With hearts full of beautiful moments, we drove to our last campsite in Grindavík!

On the way, we drove on relatively newly built roads because the 'old' ones were covered by lava. There are also warnings to check beforehand whether the roads toward Grindavík are clear. It looked crazy how the actual road was half covered with lava!

The campsite was again super beautiful! Directly with a playground, the children could move freely, and we could sit in the sun!

Only the water seemed to taste, at least it felt like it, of sulfur... maybe it was just in the air.

We hoped that Iceland would send us northern lights 🌟 for the last evening/last night since the weather had been great during the day!

But unfortunately, the opposite was the case. It poured and stormed the last night, so we set off a bit earlier than planned and very slowly and carefully toward the airport.

On the last evening, we all shared what we liked the most:

Eric: the Svínafellsjökull glacier

Susanne: the waterfalls, especially Gullfoss and the town of Vìk

Leo: can’t say it properly, but he remembers the waterfalls and often mentions the Lava Show

Nala (who moved us the most): the waterfalls, the glacier, riding, and that we were all together for so long ❤️

General about our trip:

• On the trips, we had all kinds of weather! Fortunately, we mostly had heavy rain only when we were sitting in the car.
• The kids were allowed to watch a movie on the two longer trips; otherwise, they listened to audiobooks, we listened to music together (I created a playlist for everyone for Iceland in advance), or we simply looked out a lot, and each of us told what we saw!
• Our songs that accompanied us the most were Home by Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeros and Little Talks by Of Monsters and Men. Also, the songs from the Disney film Vaiana (because the kids listened to the audio play over and over).
• We always played something together in the evenings.

• The beautiful regions and the endless expanses were simply beautiful to see during the trips!
• There are huge horse pastures with giant herds (certainly 50 horses together).
• Sheep standing calmly and grazing right by the roadside.
• Particularly, the sheep drivers on horseback. They often cause traffic jams. The horses are ridden, led again, feel like the whole family is riding or at least in the car with them. From babies to toddlers to adults. A whole different world!

• The trips didn't seem so long to me, even though an hour's drive felt short there, but at home, an hour's drive seems to take forever!
• When visibility was good, there were so many great landscapes to see that four hours of driving went by in no time!