Island Hopping Part #2 - We almost overlooked the small gem of Lanzarote...

Personal log entry from the houseboat Betty HH-VX 717: It is the year 2025, January 29th, 16:00.

The ferry crossing from Fuerteventura to Lanzarote is a real pleasure – just a stone's throw away, but with spectacular views. Passing the distinctive Isla de Lobos, we glide over the turquoise water and shortly thereafter reach the harbor of Playa Blanca in southern Lanzarote. The 25-minute crossing in brilliant sunshine is just enough time for a coffee on the sun deck – a perfect start for our new destination, Lanzarote.

Our day's goal is La Santa, on the wild west coast of the island. The small town is a paradise for water sports enthusiasts: while surfers enjoy the perfect breaks, the protected lagoon attracts wingfoilers – a dream spot with a constant breeze. We hope to meet up again with the globetrotters Sascha and Zhaoyang, whom we last saw in May 2024 in Tenerife.

Fire Mountains and Lava Landscapes – A Detour to Timanfaya National Park

On our way to La Santa, we pass through Lanzarote's greatest natural wonder: the Timanfaya National Park. It looks as if the last volcanic eruption occurred not centuries ago but just yesterday. Volcanic cones, endless lava fields, and earthy tones from black to deep red to bright green create a surreal moon landscape that leaves us speechless.

A short stop at the visitor center is worthwhile. The building is located in the middle of a lava field and offers fascinating insights into the island's volcanic past. The drive through this primal force of nature is breathtaking – Lanzarote is already enchanting us!

Reunion in La Santa – Van Life and Water Sports Community

In the late afternoon, we reach La Santa, where Sascha and Zhaoyang are waiting for us with their camper-converted Iveco Daily. The joy of reunion is great! In the last few months, they have gone on exciting trips: a bike tour through China, windsurfing and wingfoiling in Mauritius. Zhaoyang gained his first experiences with wingfoiling there – he aims to expand this knowledge on Lanzarote.

La Santa is not only a water sports mecca but also a training center for competitive athletes. Even in the morning, runners, walkers, cyclists, and wheelchair users are out – the energy is contagious!

Exploration Tour: Lanzarote Beyond the Clichés

The next day, we explore the island. Our route leads us towards Costa Teguise on the east coast. Almost 30 years ago, we spent a one-week package holiday here – all we can remember is the Timanfaya National Park and the home of César Manrique, the visionary architect of Lanzarote.

Thanks to Manrique, the island has been preserved from mass tourism: (Almost) no hotel towers, no skyscrapers – instead, traditional whitewashed houses with green shutters that harmoniously blend into the landscape. Lanzarote looks like it was carved from a single mold, and that is exactly what makes the island so different and special.

We continue south through the capital Arrecife. Claudia, whom we met in Tenerife, informs us that some popular parking spots for larger motorhomes along the east coast have been closed. Fortunately, we find a perfect overnight spot at the beachfront promenade in Playa Blanca – with a view of the sea and in close proximity to a desalination plant that supplies Lanzarote with drinking water. By the way, the night before, we were chased away from our parking spot for the first time on our entire trip. The parking lot at Castillo de San Jose in Arrecife, overlooking the cruise ship harbor, seemed like a suitable place. But just as we closed our eyes, there was a vigorous knock on the sliding door. A security guard informs us that the parking lot is closed at night. We must vacate and drive (still in pajamas!) around the corner and spend the night relatively quietly in an ugly industrial area. It is getting tighter for motorhomes here in Lanzarote as well...

Hiking, Canyons, and a Spectacular Natural Spectacle

On February 1st, we have a hike planned with Sascha and Zhaoyang – however, Sascha has to say goodbye early as he twisted his toe while wingfoiling (sic!). Our route leads to a mountain whose slopes have been shaped into breathtaking, narrow canyons by erosion. The narrow, winding rock gorges remind us of the film 127 Hours – but there are no dangers here.

At the top of the mountain, the wind hits us so forcefully that we have to cancel our tour at the lower summit cross. In the evening, we spend the night on the cliff coast near La Hoya, right next to a historic saltworks shimmering in beautiful colors.

Not far away lies the next natural wonder: Los Hervideros. Here, the lava has formed spectacular cave formations along the coast. The waves crash with full force into the hollows – on stormy days, the spray shoots meters into the air. A fascinating spectacle!

To the north of Los Hervideros lies the small, idyllic village of El Golfo by the water. This is where one goes if you want to enjoy good fish in one of the many restaurants on the lava beach. At the edge of the village is a small parking lot where you can spend the night undisturbed. Kitschy sunset included.

In El Golfo is also the “Green Lagoon.” In a crater rim sunken into the sea, the water has turned bright green due to algae. On the other side of the village begins the Timanfaya National Park. A hike through the lava fields gives you an idea of the primal force of a volcanic eruption. The landscape here is determined by the Terre El Malpais ('Bad Land'). This arises when a slow lava flow cools and breaks up at the surface. On this 'bad land,' there is no passage, almost no life, and hardly any greenery. It takes hundreds of thousands of years for this landscape to be made cultivable through erosion.

The next day is laundry day again. About every two weeks, we head to a laundromat, this time in Costa Teguise, where we usually run two loads simultaneously. Afterward, part of the laundry goes into the dryer, while the rest hangs up in the van, making it look like a clothes bazaar. But that is also part of it, and alongside the many beautiful experiences while traveling, there is also a share of everyday life that is greater than one might think: shopping, looking for overnight spots, constant tidying up (very important in the van!), small repairs, doing 'office work,' and so on…

César Manrique and the Magic of Lanzarote

An absolute highlight on the island is the Fundación César Manrique. In natural lava caves, the now-deceased artist created a living paradise for himself – above and below ground, with flowing transitions between nature and architecture. Manrique not only lived here but also hosted legendary parties. Despite the many visitors, one feels like a personal guest in his realm – a clear recommendation!

Back in La Santa, we meet again with the local wingfoiling scene. The community is a colorful mix: Claudia from Flensburg, Rudi and Angie (who got stuck here with a van 40 years ago!), Wacki from Austria – and particularly impressive: Harry, a passionate wingfoiler who has had only one hand since childhood but simply hooks into the wing with his elbow and takes off. A true role model!

Outside on the headland in front of the lagoon of La Santa, huge waves break – a breathtaking show that awakens in me the longing to finally get back on the water. But before that can happen, I follow Angie's recommendation and visit Trevor, a talented physiotherapist who stranded in this area from the UK years ago. With skilled hands, he releases the last tensions in my left hand and arm. After the treatment, I immediately feel the mobility returning – slowly but surely, I'm starting to feel ready for action again!

Before heading back to the water, we have a tour planned. This time it takes us to the North of Lanzarote – a route full of contrasts. Through Teguise, Los Valles, and Haría, the narrow road winds through sleepy villages in typical 'Manrique style': white houses with green shutters, embedded in a dramatic volcanic landscape. Behind every turn awaits a new panorama – sometimes barren mountain slopes, sometimes lush green valleys that seem almost unreal in this otherwise dry environment. At Mirador de Guinate, a breathtaking view opens up of La Graciosa, the small, untouched neighboring island of Lanzarote. We skip the famous but bus-laden Mirador del Río (also designed by César Manrique) – we prefer to enjoy the view in peace.

A narrow road leads down from the northern tip of Lanzarote to Órzola, the island's northernmost town. From here, we follow the LZ-1 along the east coast heading south – a route full of hidden natural wonders. One of them is Playa Caletón Blanco: A dreamy, shallow lagoon with bright white sand, framed by dark lava rocks. The knee-deep crystal-clear water shimmers in the most beautiful turquoise tones – a spot made for spectacular Instagram photos. No wonder the selfie generation is queuing up here!

Arrieta - our little paradise in Lanzarote

The Park4Night app led us to Arrieta – and it doesn't take long for us to fall in love with this small, charming coastal town. The parking lot by the beach is quite busy, but you could hardly be closer to the sea.

Arrieta has exactly the charm we like: a relaxed, authentic fishing village with a hint of surf vibe. Right next to the parking lot, a cozy beach restaurant invites us to indulge, while the beach bar scores points with chill music and a sea view. However, the actual highlight is the landing zone for paragliders and hang gliders – from the nearby coastal hills, they quietly glide over us before landing (most of the time) gently on the beach. Action guaranteed! We take the opportunity for extensive hikes along the coast, explore hidden coves, and enjoy the rugged beauty of the landscape. Again and again, we discover pretty little houses, where we briefly imagine living here. But as tempting as the thought is – in the end, we all agree: the untethered van life just suits us better!

Crater Rim Tour in Timanfaya National Park

Back in Timanfaya National Park, we want to climb a crater rim. From the town of Mancha Blanca, several kilometers of hiking trails lead into the volcanic landscape. Then we go up to the crater rim of Caldera Blanca. The crater is enormous! What unimaginable energy must this eruption have held to create this crater? One can walk once around the crater rim, but the steep drop to the left and right means that Susi bravely goes on alone while I prefer to turn back. A little later we meet at the bottom and are both very impressed. You can't get closer to the forces that created the earth than on Lanzarote!

Famara, Biking, and Juicy Steaks

In the evening, we set up camp in Famara and meet up with Sascha and Zhaoyang again. Famara is the epicenter of surfing on Lanzarote – an endless sandy beach where perfect waves roll in for all skill levels. The town itself exudes typical surfer charm: rugged, relaxed, and a bit rundown, almost like Klitmøller in Denmark. However, today Famara shows its peaceful side – no wind, brilliant sunshine, crystal-clear visibility of the majestic cliffs that make the place so special. We take advantage of the perfect weather for an extended beach walk and watch the surfers.

In the afternoon, Susi, Sascha, and Zhaoyang have a mountain biking tour planned – starting from Costa Teguise towards the mythical 'Lost Places'. I, on the other hand, have to sit this one out. My hand is still not quite ready, so I use the time in the van to focus on my re-entry into professional life – a task that also requires full concentration. In the evening, we treat ourselves to a really good meal. Tonight, it must be meat! The choice falls on a steak restaurant, and to celebrate the day, we're even treated – because I won a bet against Zhaoyang. The topic? The political status of Gibraltar. A perfect conclusion to a busy day!

A Day Full of Surprises – Arrecife and a Reunion in Los Valles

On February 10th, Arrecife is on our exploration list. We haven't received any enthusiastic recommendations, but for the sake of completeness, we want to check out Lanzarote's capital anyway. And as it sometimes happens – we are pleasantly surprised. Arrecife is calm, relaxed, and surprisingly empty. No overcrowded tourist hotspots, no hectic activity – instead, a laid-back coastal town with its own charm. On the harbor pier, we discover a small museum and a swimming pool designed in the typical Lanzarote style. The city beach is clean, well-kept, and – for us, a real highlight – equipped with functioning beach showers. Perfect for washing off salt and sand and enjoying a little refreshment.

In the afternoon, we look forward to a special appointment: Michelangelo, whom we met during our Morocco tour, has invited us to his home in Los Valles. There we will not only reunite with him but also meet his wife Christina, whom we have not met yet. The couple sold their ice cream parlor in Husum years ago and has built a new life on Lanzarote with great passion. Their project? A dilapidated estate that they have transformed into a true gem using classic building materials and a lot of love for detail. Two tastefully furnished holiday apartments and their own house now occupy a picturesque hillside. Proudly, they show us their little paradise – and we are impressed. Susi says – and I wholeheartedly agree – that we have rarely seen vacation apartments that are styled and renovated so tastefully. The evening flies by. Over good wine, cheese, and salami, we chat about everything possible – from Husum to Morocco to immigrating to the Canary Islands. The conversations are exciting, the mood is carefree, and when we eventually look at the clock, it's already late. Luckily, we can spend the night in Betty on their property – it doesn't get more convenient than that!

Thank you very much, you two – until next time!

A Day in the Fire Mountains – Montañas del Fuego and La Geria

Today, we have a real highlight on the agenda: the Montañas del Fuego in Timanfaya National Park! Before heading deep into the volcanic landscape, we stop at the visitor center, where we learn more about the dramatic history of the volcanic eruptions on Lanzarote. The explanations about global volcanism and the movements of the tectonic plates remind us once again how alive and unpredictable our planet really is. Then we drive deep into the national park. For a fee of €20 per person, we ascend a steep road to the viewpoint of Islote de Hilario. From here, the Ruta de los Volcanes starts, a 14-kilometer circular route that can only be done with the official buses.

We are lucky and grab great spots at the very front right – with a breathtaking panoramic view of the bizarre lava landscape. The drive feels like a mix of nature documentary and rollercoaster ride: tight hairpin turns, narrow roads without guardrails, and time and again, the volcanic rock looms threateningly close to us. At some points, it feels like the bus is hovering directly above the abyss – adrenaline included! Yet our driver remains completely relaxed, even when he is animatedly chatting with a young, pretty Spanish woman whom he has strategically seated in the tour guide's seat. We trust that he has driven this route before.

Fire, Geysers, and a Natural Volcano Grill

Back at the viewpoint, we are shown how alive the volcano still is beneath our feet. A park employee throws dry bushes into a crevice – it ignites instantly. Even more impressive: a bucket of water is poured into a tube that leads deep into the ground. Just a few seconds later, a geyser shoots a fountain of steam meters into the air – a spectacle! Another highlight is the restaurant that grills its meat using volcanic heat – a natural “air fryer” straight from the volcano. Under a fountain-like opening, so much hot air streams from the Earth's interior that grilling is easy. Impressive and at the same time a bit eerie to realize what lies beneath our feet.

La Geria – Wine Production in the Lava Landscape

On the way back to the coast, we pass through La Geria, Lanzarote's famous wine-growing region. Here, viticulture is possible under extreme conditions – but with considerable effort. Each individual vine grows in a hollow in the lava and ash soil that stores water and reduces evaporation. To protect the plants from the strong trade winds, a semi-circular stone wall is built around each vine. In the evening, we spend the night at Costa Teguise. Tomorrow, we have a reunion planned with Barbara from Flensburg in Arrieta, who has now also come here from Tenerife via Fuerteventura. We are curious about her stories! In the morning, there is a big reunion with Barbara and her dog Ramba. Similar to us, the two have also gone island hopping. However, Barbara will return to her northern German homeland in just over a week. In Flensburg, Barbara has her own physiotherapy practice, and I take advantage of her skills to get my hand fit for water sports again! Meanwhile, with the other hand, I get to pet Ramba.

Wingfoiling in La Santa - finally back on the water!

For February 13th, we plan to show Barbara the wingfoil spot in La Santa. Before that, we will take a large round trip around the northern tip of the island together. The weather is perfect and the view from the Mirador de Guinate of La Graciosa Island is even more beautiful than last time. In La Santa, a gentle wind blows, and I feel fit enough to return to the water for the first time since the fateful December 22nd (Tenerife Travel Blog - a Deep Cut)! The conditions are just right to test the resilience of my left hand. When I come back from the water at sunset, I am super happy.

The next day, the wind is gone, but the waves on the Atlantic coast of La Santa are all the higher. From the safe shore, we watch the few surfers brave the waves that reach heights of up to 5-6(!) meters. In the evening, we drive to the fishing village of El Golfo. Normally, we rarely eat out on our trip – we prefer to cook ourselves and watch our budget. But tonight, we treat ourselves to a nice fish dish while the sun sets in the Atlantic behind us. After that, it is just a few steps to our van, which is only a few meters from the sea. A wonderful life!

The next morning, we visit the caves in the cliffs of Los Hervideros once more. This time, the waves are even higher, and it is a spectacle to see the water masses crashing into the caves. Today we want to check out Playa Honda. This quiet resort, primarily for Spanish tourists, lies directly at the airport of Lanzarote and is a well-known spot for wingfoiling. However, today the wind blows offshore, and we stick to sightseeing at the beach promenade. Therefore, we head back to La Santa, and I look forward to wingfoiling again on the lagoon!

Fortunately, the next morning is still windy, and I can go wingfoiling on the lagoon one last time. My left hand is already functioning quite well again. For protection, I wear gloves and with the helmet and impact vest, I hope to be fully secured against further mishaps. Meanwhile, Susi hops on her e-bike and explores the area around La Santa in detail. After initially finding this part of Lanzarote not very appealing, she is now very much enjoying being around La Santa. However, our days on Lanzarote are numbered. We say goodbye to the wingfoiling crew and set off south to the ferry port of Playa Blanca. After a peaceful night in Playa Blanca, we plan to take the first fast ferry back to Fuerteventura on the morning of February 17th. In just a few days, we will have the long-awaited family visit there. We arrive at the ferry harbor very early and are nearly the only vehicle there. The staff of the ferry company takes this opportunity to thoroughly measure our vehicle to check if we hadn't cheated on the length during registration. But we didn't. At exactly 11 AM, we set off, and after just 25 minutes of sailing, we dock in the harbor of Corralejo.

Conclusion: Originally, we had only planned a few days on Lanzarote for our island hopping tour – in the end, it turned into a good two weeks and the island has proven to be our new favorite! Lanzarote has just the right size to quickly get from one end of the island to the other. Thanks to César Manrique, it feels like a cohesive whole – there are (almost) no building sins. Water sports enthusiasts, bikers, and hikers will be fully satisfied here, and compared to Fuerteventura, Lanzarote offers significantly more variety. And then this volcanic landscape – simply unique!

Lanzarote, we will definitely return!

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On the road: 391 days
Distance traveled: 25,050 km
To be continued