No Peace – From Jurmala to Gauja

After the hustle and bustle of Riga, we seek relaxation by the coast and find ourselves at a lovely campsite in Jurmala, right at the forest edge close to the beach. It’s quiet at first, but by the first evening a large English family turns the place into a mess of trash and noise.

We go on a hike to the orthodox church “Sv. Prince Vladimir” in Jurmala. Halfway there, blisters start to bother our feet, so we take the bus for the rest of the way. In the evening, we spontaneously take a trip to Ķemeri to visit another beautiful church and a large park. The walk back on foot becomes a challenge, as we keep running from horseflies and mosquitoes.

After a restless night filled with loud techno music, we move on to Gauja National Park. Arriving in Raiskums, we enjoy the stunning lakeside location, even though our neighbors throw a noisy retiree party.

The next morning, we take the bus to Cēsis and then on to Sigulda. From there, we hike—this time equipped with blister plasters—to Sigulda Castle and Gutmann’s Cave. The trail leads us up and down many stairs before we arrive, drenched in sweat, at the impressive Turaida Castle. The old fortress is well restored and invites exploration.

The return trip is by bus, that much is clear. Cēsis also has an old castle and charming alleys, though construction work somewhat mars the idyll. In the evening, it’s back to camp—shoes off and feet up.

Unfortunately, the campsite pizzeria is closed on Mondays—our pizza dreams after the hike are dashed. The next day is all about reading, lounging, and waiting for the pizzeria to finally open.