The Bora – a strong, cold, and gusty fall wind – is typical for the Croatian and Montenegrin Adriatic coast.
We leave our perfect anchorage just after noon. As soon as we motor out of the sheltered bay, it hits us again – the Bora is back! Wrapped in sweaters and sailing jackets, we still enjoy being on the water. The sun shines, the sea sparkles, and with about seven knots of wind, we glide peacefully along the coast. By afternoon, the next bay is already waiting.
This one has a very special backdrop: As we approach, we can see the old Ottoman wall, which once served for defense and now marks the edge of a nature reserve. We are not alone, but the other boats anchor at a respectful distance – calm, peaceful, and beautiful.
The next day will be cozy. We take the dinghy, go ashore, stroll along the wall, and do a little shopping in the almost deserted village. The waterfront restaurants are closed, empty chairs sit abandoned by the water, as if the summer season has just ended yesterday. An older man repairs his boat while five others sit on a nearby park bench, giving advice with serious expressions. We sit at a distance with an ice cream, observing the scene – better than cinema.
Back on the boat, we stow our purchases and later take another round with the dinghy. The wall looks even more impressive from the water.
The next leg is short. Very short. The battery level is low, the water tank is empty – high time for a marina. Luckily, Primošten is directly on our route. The old town sits atop a small peninsula, and the church tower can be seen from everywhere.
We stroll through the narrow alleys, buy the essentials, and encounter the many cats of the place. They roam through the old stone steps, lie in wait between fishing boats for prey, or doze on warm windowsills. One wants to take them all along – but we manage to remain steadfast.
Our berth is perfect: quiet, with no direct neighbors, the water glistens in the evening light. At sunset, we climb up to the church tower – the view is simply magical. Afterwards, we head to the restaurant: calamari for Annett, Christian, and Frank, sea bream for Steffi.
Saturday begins for Steffi with a walk at sunrise – the old town is still quiet, just seagulls and a few cats making their way back from their nightly forays. We enjoy breakfast slowly, take our time, and only depart around noon.
And then – it blows again: the Bora. With nearly 25 knots of wind, we race down the coast, the spray splashes, and the boat races. The rest of the crew is thrilled, only Steffi bravely battles a severe migraine and disappears into the cabin for a few hours.
In the evening, the wind calms down. We find a lonely bay and anchor in the golden light. A heron struts along the shore, and our gull “Gertrud” peacefully swims behind the boat once more. The sun sinks crimson into the sea – a perfect conclusion.
Chasing the Bora
The Bora — a strong, cold, and gusty wind — is typical for the Croatian and Montenegrin Adriatic coast.
We leave our perfect anchorage just after noon. As soon as we motor out of the sheltered bay, she’s back — the Bora! Wrapped in sweaters and sailing jackets, we still enjoy being out on the water. The sun shines, the sea sparkles, and with about seven knots of wind, we glide peacefully along the coast. By afternoon, the next bay is already waiting.
It’s a special one: as we approach, we can already see the old Ottoman wall, once a line of defense and now the edge of a nature reserve. We’re not alone, but the other boats keep a respectful distance — everything calm and glowing in the afternoon light.
The next day is relaxed. We take the dinghy ashore, walk along the wall, and pick up a few things in a nearly deserted village. The waterfront cafés are closed, chairs stacked or standing empty by the water — as if summer had ended only yesterday. An old man repairs his boat while five others sit on a park bench nearby giving “helpful” advice. We sit at some distance, enjoying an ice cream and the scene — better than a movie.
Later, we take another dinghy ride around the bay. Seeing the wall from the water is even more impressive — history meeting the rhythm of wind and waves.
The next leg is short. Very short. The batteries are low, the water tank is empty — time for a marina. Luckily, the charming town of Primošten is right along our route. The old town sits on a small peninsula, crowned by a church tower visible from all sides.
We wander through narrow alleys, buy a few essentials, and meet the many cats of the town — lounging on warm stone steps, hunting around fishing boats, or sunbathing on window ledges. Irresistible, but we manage to leave them all behind.
Our berth is perfect: quiet, no neighbors, and the water glows golden in the evening light. We climb up to the church tower for sunset — the view is breathtaking. Dinner follows: calamari for Annett, Christian, and Frank, sea bream for Steffi.
Saturday begins with a sunrise walk — the old town still sleepy, just seagulls and a few cats returning from their nightly adventures. We take our time, enjoy a slow breakfast, and finally set off around noon.
And then — she’s back: the Bora. Blowing at nearly 25 knots, she races us down the coast. The spray flies, the boat hums with energy. The crew is thrilled; Steffi, less so — she’s fighting a stubborn migraine and retreats below deck for a while.
By evening, the wind calms. We anchor in a quiet bay glowing with sunset light. A heron stands at the shore, and “Gertrud,” our loyal seagull, floats behind the boat again. The sea shimmers, the sky burns — the perfect ending to a wild, beautiful day.
