Split on Your Own

What an unforgettable summer day! When our ship docked this morning in the harbor of Split, I had no idea how deeply this city would captivate me. It’s incredibly hot, but the sea breeze and the ancient stones almost make you forget the heat. Split is not a sterile museum city – here, vibrant life pulses right in the midst of history.

My day began with an absolute feast for the senses at the Pazar, the Green Market. I love this hustle and bustle! Everywhere I could smell fresh summer figs, ripe tomatoes, and wild herbs. In the middle of it all, locals were haggling, and you could immediately sense the Croatian joy of life. Just a few steps further, I suddenly stood before the Silver Gate (Srebrna vrata). It’s fascinating: you walk through this massive Roman stone gate and instantly find yourself in the Diocletian Palace. Though “palace” is actually not the right term – it’s a living labyrinth of alleyways where people live among ancient ruins, hang laundry, and drink coffee.

The absolute centerpiece is the Peristyle Square. As I stood between the giant Corinthian columns and gazed at the real Egyptian Sphinx, I got goosebumps for a moment. Right next door towers the Cathedral of St. Domnius (Katedrala sv. Dujma). It’s totally crazy to think that this house of worship was established in the former mausoleum of Emperor Diocletian – the very same man who once cruelly persecuted Christians. History sometimes has a fine sense of irony.

Strolling through the iron gate (Mjedvrata) with its charming old 24-hour clock, I continued to Narodni trg, the People’s Square, which everyone here calls Pjaca. In front of the beautiful Old Town Hall, I first sat down in the shade and observed the hustle and bustle while enjoying an espresso. A short distance away from the tourist crowds, I discovered the little Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva Duha Svetoga) – a lovely, cool place of tranquility.

Then it got loud and bustling at the fish market (Peškarija). The vendors shouted over each other to promote their fresh catch. Excitingly, due to the nearby sulfur springs, there wasn’t a single fly in this old iron hall! Just around the corner, the picturesque fruit square opened up. Here, the proud statue of the poet Marko Marulić stands in the shadow of the powerful Venetian Tower (Mletačka Kula), which looks like a stone guardian from past times.

In the afternoon, I naturally headed to the Riva. This waterfront promenade is the pure postcard motif! Palms, the sparkling sea, and in the background, the cruise ships. At the end of the Riva, I passed the venerable Franciscan Church and soon stood at the Prokurative. This Republic Square, with its deep red arches, looks as if a piece of Venice has been conjured up in Croatia.

For the grand finale, I wanted to see the city from above. The path led me through the charming old fishing district of Veli Varoš with its narrow stone houses. Then it was time to count steps! The historic stone staircase up to Marjan Hill made me sweat in the July sunshine. But upon reaching the top, every step was forgotten. The panoramic view from the observation platform over the red rooftops of the old town, the harbor, and the Adriatic islands is simply breathtaking. While continuing through the shady pine forest, I stumbled upon the tiny, ancient St. Nicholas Church (Crkva sv. Nikole), which peacefully hugs the hillside.

Now I sit, tired, happy, and with a slight tan back on board. Split, you have captured my heart in a storm!