Bears, Reindeer, and an Earworm

Our last night in Lakeland was marked by heavy rain – and it hasn’t stopped by the time we set off the next morning. Ahead of us lie four and a half hours on the road.
After a tiring and rainy journey, we reach our destination, whose melodious name promises an earworm – Hossa!
The Hossa National Park has plenty to offer, but with the rain pouring down, we gratefully accept the opportunity for a sauna and head to bed early that night.
The next morning, the weather shows its better side. After a leisurely breakfast with pancakes and coffee, we begin a hike. Moss-lined paths take us through the hilly landscape, passing little lakes and clearings until we reach Lake Somerjärvi – and the famous Värikallio.
The rock paintings there are the northernmost found and also belong to the largest prehistoric paintings in Finland. Dating back to the Stone Age, approximately 3,500 to 4,500 years ago, they captivate us immediately. We linger there for a while before making our way back.
Next, we head north – a very special destination awaits, close to the Russian border. Along the way, we cross the first wildlife fence and see the warning signs for reindeer. We don't have to wait long: they stand peacefully by the roadside without a care in the world.
In Kuusamo, we turn onto a gravel road that brings us almost to the restricted area. Here lies the meeting point for the bear watching tour. Just before 6 p.m., the guides pick us up and take us to the observation hides.
Quietly, we prepare our cameras – and it doesn't take long: the first female bear steps into the clearing. The evening flies by as several bears appear one after another, and we can also see sea eagles soaring above us. A fantastic experience!
Content and dead tired, we fall into bed. However, it has become bitterly cold – the night is restless. Tomorrow we will have to finally brace ourselves for winter.

Oh, one more thing: Did we manage to get the earworm?

From Rain to Bears: Wild Encounters in Kuusamo

Our last night in Lakeland was marked by heavy rain – and it hasn’t stopped by the time we set off the next morning. Ahead of us lie four and a half hours on the road.

Eventually, we arrive at Hossa.

The Hossa National Park has plenty to offer, but with the rain pouring down all day, we settle for a sauna and an early night.

The next morning looks friendlier. After a leisurely breakfast with pancakes and coffee, we set off on a beautiful hike. Moss-lined trails take us through rolling hills, with views opening up repeatedly to small lakes and clearings until we finally reach Lake Somerjärvi and the Värikallio cliffs.

The rock paintings here are among the largest prehistoric rock paintings in Finland. They were painted onto the cliff face above the lake during the Stone Age, around 3,500 to 4,500 years ago.

We’re deeply impressed and linger for a while before heading back along the trail and eventually returning to the van.

Back on the road north, we’re aiming for something very special – close to the Russian border. Along the way, we pass the first reindeer warning signs. The animals don’t keep us waiting long: here and there they appear along the roadside, entirely unbothered by passing cars.

In Kuusamo, a gravel road takes us close to the restricted border zone, where the meeting point for our bear-watching tour is located. Shortly before 6 p.m., our guides collect us and lead us to the observation hides.

We settle in quietly with our cameras at the ready. It doesn’t take long before the first female bear shows up. The evening flies by as several bears wander across the clearing, and we even spot a few sea eagles. Magnificent!

Exhausted but happy, we fall into bed that night. It has turned bitterly cold, though – a reminder that tomorrow we’ll have to prepare for winter.