Day 12: Farewell in the Fog, Harbor Chaos & the 100-Euro Night on Værøy

Today was the day to say goodbye to the classic Lofoten. The destination: The remote island Værøy, far out in the sea.

The Magical Morning & Harbor Panic

Before the ferry left, I took advantage of the early morning hours for one last round over the main islands. It was the best decision! The morning fog was just lifting, the sun broke through, and bathed the small fishing villages in a mystical light. And the incredible thing: The roads were empty. No motorhomes, no buses – for a brief moment, the Lofoten belonged to me alone.

The relaxation ended abruptly at the ferry terminal in Moskenes. Pure chaos: It was packed, and communication on site was... let's say 'developable'. Nobody really knew which lane they needed to be in. Værøy? Bodø? Røst? It was total mayhem. With a bit of luck and some pushing, it worked out in the end.

• The Bonus: The ferry is free for passengers and cars! A nice gift from the Norwegian state after the expensive parking fees of the last few days.

• The Natural Spectacle: The crossing was calm, even though we passed the notorious Moskenstraumen – one of the strongest tidal currents in the world. In a storm, it swallows ships, but today it lay peacefully.

Landing on the Chocolate Runway

Upon arriving on Værøy, you park your car at a place with history: On the runway of the old airport.

• Background: The airport was closed in 1990 after a plane crashed due to extreme downdrafts. Værøy is considered one of the windiest places in Norway. Today, it is safe to park there – and ironically, we had almost wind still.

Måstad: 14 Kilometers of Heat & History

From the parking lot, I started the hike to the abandoned village Måstad. Once, over 100 people lived here from catching puffins, but today only ruins and scattered houses remain. The way there is tough: 14 kilometers along the coast. With the sun burning down mercilessly (it was almost too warm for hiking!), I was completely exhausted by the end.

• Håen: I saved the famous viewpoint mountain Håen for another time. After the 14 kilometers, I just didn't have the energy for the climb. One must know their limits.

• Puffins: Værøy is famous for its puffins. I didn't see any – and didn't actively search for them. One should not get too close to the nests during the breeding season, and I strictly adhered to that. Respect Nature!

An Expensive Night & An Invaluable Conversation

I originally wanted to camp. But after the heated hike, convenience won. I looked for a solid roof over my head. The problem: Værøy is small. There are hardly any accommodations. The solution: A room for 100 euros a night. That was the cheapest option! A high price for a simple bed, but supply and demand rule ruthlessly out here.

However, the price was worth it – because of the encounter. At the accommodation, I met an older Norwegian couple. It started harmlessly: I just wanted to know how to correctly pronounce a certain Norwegian word. This developed into a hours-long, intense conversation. We talked about life on the islands, the changes brought about by tourism, and everything under the sun. Such moments are not found in any travel guide, but are often more valuable than any viewpoint.

Outside, the sun is technically setting, but it doesn't become dark. The bright, magical twilight remains as we sat indoors chatting.

Daily Summary:

• Ferry: Free across the Maelstrom (Moskenstraumen).

• Hike: Måstad is fascinating, but a bone-breaking job in the heat.

• Accommodation: 100 euros is a lot of money, but the conversation was priceless.

• Light: The nights are getting darker, but not black yet.