Rincón de la Vieja National Park

11.11.2026 Rincón de la Vieja National Park and Rio Negro Hot Springs

After a relaxed breakfast at the lodge, we head towards the Rincón de la Vieja National Park entrance at 8:30 AM. Navigation can be a bit tricky since there’s no internet on the way, but the road options aren't too numerous.

In the last few kilometers, our route passes through the private property of Hacienda Guachipelín, where we must pay a small road toll in cash per person (800 Colones) at a gate directly from the car.

The friendly cowgirl meticulously ensures that the gate is securely closed after each vehicle 🤣. With the receipt in hand, we proceed to the actual park entrance. We booked our ticket online in advance via the Sinac Portal, Sector Pailas.

Founded in 1973, Rincón de la Vieja National Park spans about 14,300 hectares, is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and protects the largest and most active volcano in the province of Guanacaste. The volcanic massif rises up to 1,916 meters and features nine craters known for their geothermal phenomena, such as boiling mud pots, fumaroles, and hot springs. Due to its location on the continental divide, the park encompasses dry, wet, and mist forests in close proximity and provides habitat for over 300 bird species, various monkeys, and coatis. I am very excited and curious about the park and look forward to the 3.5 km long Las Pailas loop trail.

And it already starts off great. Right behind the ranger station in the first few meters, we see a group of capuchin monkeys searching for fruits and larvae on the ground. Although they spend most of their time in the trees, they regularly come down to the forest floor to expand their food options. There's also plenty of activity above us in the trees. We can observe the alpha male relatively closely and for quite some time. However, it seems to be less than thrilled about our presence.

Shortly after spotting the monkeys, we cross a suspension bridge over the Río Blanco and immerse ourselves in the shady tropical dry forest.

The national park is different from the parks we have seen so far. Unlike the perpetually wet jungles of the Caribbean coast or Monteverde, the vegetation in Rincón de la Vieja National Park primarily consists of a heat-resistant tropical dry forest and barren volcanic slopes, where instead of dense moss and giant ferns, cacti, agaves, thorny bushes, and wide meadows prevail.

The deeper we venture into the park, the more vibrant the ground becomes. Suddenly, one can hear hissing, bubbling, and simmering sounds from everywhere. In the mud pots (Las Pailas), gray, mineral-rich clay simmers, while steam rises from rock crevices, filling the air with its characteristic, slightly pungent sulfur smell.

We first reach the geothermal highlight, the Fumaroles Lagoon (one of the larger, milky muddy water and mud lagoons). The water surface bubbles periodically due to volcanic gases from below, emitting sulfurous vapors. Yikes, it smells a bit like rotten eggs.

Next, we arrive at the Pailas de Agua, shallow mineral-rich pools surrounded by yellow- and reddish-colored rocks. The striking yellow crusts on the stones are pure sulfur deposits, while the reddish hues are a result of oxidized iron.

The next exciting stop is the bubbling mud pots. In these craters, thick, gray clay simmers at high temperatures and constantly bubbles.

Continuing along the loop trail, we encounter the “Vulcancito,” a small side crater from 1966, which still emits thin wisps of smoke.

On the further path through the forest, we spot a horde of coatis in the underbrush, which we can observe with fascination for quite some time. An agouti scurries past the sniffing coatis. On the next bridge, we see a giant black water spider on a stone just above the water surface of the small stream beneath us.

At the end of the loop, we come to a small seasonal waterfall that often has little water during the dry season. Today, it has enough water and is already quite impressive. Here, many blue morpho butterflies flutter around.

I find the gigantic strangler figs fascinating, with their thick, interwoven aerial roots towering like mighty natural cathedrals towards the sky. I find the story behind these tree giants particularly interesting: they start their life high up in the branches of a host tree, sending their roots down like a dense network to the forest floor and encircling the original trunk so tightly over decades that it dies, leaving only the hollow, rooted framework of the fig standing. Standing directly before these massive buttress roots and bizarre arches, I feel quite tiny myself and sense the incredible power of the tropical forest.

Just before we walk across the wooden bridge back to the starting point, we spot some spider monkeys high up in the first trees above us.

What a round: panoramic views, many animal sightings, fascinating flora, and exciting volcanic activity. Rincón de la Vieja National Park, Sector Pailas, with the Las Pailas walk is definitely an absolute highlight and is already one of my top favorites of the tour. Impressive.

Afterward, we enjoy a coffee at the restaurant of the Guachipilin Lodge. Unfortunately, we are not allowed into the coffee bar, which is only for guests staying at the lodge.

Next, we head to the Rio Negro Hot Springs. These are located on the grounds of Hacienda Guachipelín (but take 15 minutes by car, the Hacienda grounds are really huge) directly on the banks of a crystal-clear mountain river and are accessible via two suspension bridges through the tropical forest. In the ten naturally designed stone pools, we are greeted with mineral-rich water, heated to a pleasant 37 to 40 degrees Celsius by the geothermal activity of the nearby Rincón de la Vieja volcano. We start with the 'cool' 37-degree hot spring and gradually move up to 40 degrees. Hmmmhhh, it’s wonderfully relaxing. Above us are the tropical rainforest trees, further down the Rio Negro babbles, and we are floating in the warm water. A wellness dream. Afterward, we cover ourselves from head to toe with the volcanic healing mud provided and let it dry in the sun before rinsing it off and sliding back into the warm water. The best moment for me is the refreshing cool-off directly in the flowing cool water of the river. Lying in the current, cooling off, and feeling truly free in my mind. A moment I will also keep in my heart.

In the parking lot, a green iguana scurries by and takes refuge in a nearby tree. I can observe it up close and am continually fascinated by these animals.

The conclusion of this grand, intense day is a cool beer for sunset at the pool in the lodge. Pura Vida.