From the Fog Forest to the Guanacaste Volcano Chain

11.10.2026 Drive from Santa Elena to the Rinconcito Lodge, San Jorge, Guanacaste

Today we say goodbye to our Magic Place. I will miss the dreamlike view; it was truly a special place. So I make one last time yoga High above the Clouds, this time on the terrace with the sound of birds chirping. Namaste. There’s even a rainbow 🌈 to bid farewell, and the large birds majestically circle in the thermals above in the sky.

I thought the drive from La Fortuna to Santa Elena couldn’t be topped. I was terribly wrong. The route we take today from Santa Elena to San Jorge is indeed beautifully scenic but has potholes that are hard to surpass and is an extremely winding mountain road. Initially, it’s still comfortable on the Ruta Nacional Treciaria 606 until we turn onto Ruta 145. At times, the potholes take up the entire width of the road, requiring slaloming at the highest level. Or just rocking along at super slow speeds. We stop now and then to let a car or motorcycle with a local driver pass. Therefore, I catch very little of the fantastic scenery.

Just before we hit Ruta 1, we pass through the small town of San Jorge. By now, the road is well paved again, and we have reached flat terrain.

In Bagaces, we fill up with gas and get cash. This is the last opportunity before heading to Rinconcito Lodge. I can hardly believe it, but let’s trust the guidebook's statement.

Before heading to the lodge, we detour to Catarata Llanos del Cortés, near Bagaces.

The waterfall is a true nature paradise. The water cascades about 15 meters down a wide rock wall into a large, clear basin. The brilliant part is that at the pool's edge, there is a wide, fine sandy beach. It feels almost like a hidden beach in the jungle-like forest. I refresh myself in the wonderfully clear water; it is heavenly.

A coati also finds this interesting and curiously wanders among the people. However, I don't fully trust the animal and prefer to keep my distance.

We have this wonderful place almost to ourselves, there are only two other couples here besides us. Just before we set off back, however, a whole tour bus arrives, posing in all sorts of positions in front of the waterfall. What luck we had!

The onward journey is initially quite relaxed on the well-built Ruta 164, the landscape changes, the land is flatter and more open with many pastures with cows and horses. However, there are also hardly any villages or houses, quite lonely here. Before Guayabo, we take a detour and travel the last approximately 12 km over a gravel road through no man's land. We definitely can't drive fast here and crawl along at 25 km/h through the beautiful landscape. Now I understand why we needed to fill up in Bagaces and stock up on cash and essentials; no service opportunities have presented themselves for a long time. DESPACIO.

Our next accommodation is the Rinconcito Lodge, which is super idyllic and remote, set in the mountain forests of the Guanacaste province at around six hundred meters high, right between the national park and the Miravalles volcano. Our very spacious rooms are cozy with wooden furniture and have a private balcony with a hammock, from which one can enjoy a wonderful view of the mountains and stunning sunsets. Pura Vida.

However, I still have restless energy and want to take the hike to the waterfall on the property of the Rinconcito Lodge. According to the map at the reception, it should take about two hours round trip, alternatively, there is a turnoff to a viewpoint. I put on my hiking shoes and off I go, this time alone.

The path leads beautifully along a river, and I even cross a swing bridge à la Indiana Jones. However, I have great respect for it; I have watched too many episodes of Bergretter. Around me, birds are chirping and screaming, blue Morpho butterflies flutter close to me, and I have to balance across stones to cross the river. Pure adventure. After about 45 minutes, I reach another river crossing and I realize: 'According to the route length on the map, I should have reached the waterfall or soon will' and 'I can't get across there; too dangerous.' As I move back and forth to find the perfect spot for a photo and to see if I might spot the waterfall on the other side of the river, I notice an enormous spider web of a gigantic golden orb-weaver right next to me. Fascinating and immediately creepy. A bit disappointed, I head back; I would have liked to see the waterfall. Alternatively, I attempt to find the viewpoint. However, I also don't really find that, as I probably imagined it differently once again. But there is still a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains/volcanoes. I am accompanied by the loud call of a group of white-throated magpie-jays. Overall, the duration of the hike was much shorter than anticipated; I can't complain and it was definitely worthwhile.

Satisfied and exhausted, I settle down by the beautiful pool, and we enjoy a beer during the sundowner. Finally, there is a delicious dinner at the lodge’s restaurant.