Holy Week - Part 2

Galicia 17.-19.04.25

The last stop of our journey is approaching, and we're heading to the Galician regional capital, Santiago de Compostela. The destination of all the pilgrimage routes from every direction. The Mecca of Catholic pilgrimage.

Even those among us who are less religious are likely familiar with the Camino de Santiago and the destination Santiago from Hape Kerkeling's bestseller 'I’ll be off now'.

By the way, it's a highly recommended book, as the journey on the Camino de Santiago is beautifully described and makes you want to start hiking right away!

In fact, we were not aware during our planning that we would be coming to Santiago exactly from Maundy Thursday to Holy Saturday!

We already noticed that Easter with the 'Holy Week' seems to be something very special for Spaniards, as we experienced in Viveiro, where theoretically there was supposed to be a mini-procession every evening, provided the weather allowed it…christian blessed future perfect…

Also, the weather forecast does not bode well for our vacation finale! Continuous rainfall from Thursday afternoon until Saturday evening.

Yes, we are a bit sad about the vacation coming to an end. However, we feel that it is a bit exaggerated to have the sky constantly weeping!

But we do not want to complain. The dozens of pilgrims we see walking past us on the way to our hotel are not deterred from their often days-long journey by the fact that someone up there is opening sluice after sluice!

So, we take the bus into the city center, not particularly prepared for the city and the celebrations. The only thing we skimmed through is the program booklet for the Semana Santa and found a few exciting processions through the city streets that we would hate to miss.

What can be said about Santiago in general?!

The name is derived from a variation of 'Sanctus lacobus' and (presumably) the Latin word for graveyard, 'compostum', as there was believed to be a Roman cemetery beneath today's cathedral! There are other theories, but we liked this one the best!

Around the year 800 AD, the grave of the Apostle James is said to have been found at the site where today one of the largest church buildings in the world stands with a footprint of 23,000 square meters.

After his beheading in Jerusalem, his body was allegedly brought on a true odyssey over several centuries to Spain, to his former mission area, where he is said to have been buried in the place now suspected to be in Santiago!

Quite a lot of conjecture, if you ask us.

This story was confirmed and certified by the bishop's and papal recognition of the discovered remains as relics of James. Meanwhile, the Armenian Jacob Cathedral in Jerusalem claims similar, as it is in possession of the skull of the beheaded. A rather tenuous claim, if I may say so!

Regardless, over the centuries, this little patch of cemetery has turned into one of the most traditional religious sites worldwide, with over 20 churches and 12 monasteries within the medieval city area, the all-encompassing cathedral, and the associated oldest hotel in the world, which is allegedly said to have already offered pilgrims accommodation in the late 15th century on behalf of the church!

Excitedly, we throw ourselves into the crowd armed with rain jackets, rain pants, and umbrellas and let ourselves drift a bit through the alleys!

Here and there, there are small trinket shops with various souvenirs for pilgrims and non-pilgrims, always interspersed with bars, cafes, and restaurants!

It’s charming here, we can gladly confirm at first glance. The medieval city center seems largely preserved, and the numerous places of worship are also in good condition!

Following the flow of people, we step out of an alley and suddenly find ourselves before the cathedral! It appears gigantic among all the other buildings, and this is just the side view!

To get inside, we stand in the never-ending rain in line, only to discover once inside that the Maundy Thursday pilgrimage mass is now starting!

We join in, even though we understand nothing. Only the typically Catholic rites like the opening 'Our Father', the sermon from the Gospel, or the Holy Communion sound identical in every language!

What completely overwhelms us, however, is the choir and the astounding acoustics in this enormous house of worship!

It sounds like a song of elves, and we dream back to our week of hiking, where this musical accompaniment would have perfectly fit!

So we let the mass wash over us in awe. We are briefly disappointed that the largest censer in the world, the Botafumeiro, weighing 54 kg, is not swung across the nave, but on the other hand, we are also thankful because for all of us the smell would undoubtedly lead to considerable nausea.

After a little more than an hour, we leave the church to participate in one of the famous processions of the numerous sometimes centuries-old brotherhoods.

So we position ourselves prominently to admire the procession of masked (KKK 2.0) and barefoot men, some of whom carry the cross of Christ or bear heavy thrones as a group!

This tradition is said to be around 700 years old and is conducted during the penitential season (Palm Sunday to Holy Saturday) in mourning and from Easter Sunday in joy.

At this time, altars or thrones weighing hundreds of kilos, depicting Jesus' passion, are carried through the streets, while other brotherhood members complete the procession in varying degrees of penance. Most brotherhoods are known for their distinctive clothing with pointed hoods, which is supposed to symbolize a kind of ascension to heaven! To us, the photos of the masked people look like a meeting of the Ku Klux Klan!

We are curious, as these processions in Spain belong to the highest traditions of faith.

However, as in Viveiro, we are bitterly disappointed! Here in Santiago as well, the fervent belief in Jesus, his sacrifice for all of us, and his resurrection seems to bow down before the weather!

Procession is canceled due to heavy rain, writes the authority responsible for the citywide celebrations on Instagram.

Yesss… the church in the 21st century! Not weatherproof, but online!

We are frustrated and disappointed, as the gates up there are not open wide at all at the moment. But it doesn’t matter, as supposedly at 11:30 PM, one, if not the most impressive procession is set to start. Upon inquiry via Instagram, we are also confirmed that this will (so far) take place!

Unsure, especially regarding the time and with no possibility to return to the hotel at that hour aside from a taxi, we waver back and forth, finding it hard to imagine that the march will proceed, but ultimately decide to stay.

We find something to eat, a bar to play dice, and thus wait in the dry for this highlight to also become a victim of the rain.

But when, shortly before half-past eleven, there’s still no cancellation, and the alleys fill more and more with onlookers, it seems that in THIS brotherhood, only those allowed into heaven, um, err… should have a chance to see it.

And so at 11:30 PM, drumbeats sound from one of the alleys ahead of us, and shortly after, the procession of masked men turns the corner toward us amidst a medieval backdrop.

Men in long robes with high pointed hats, carrying long candles, mostly barefoot, some carrying a cross like Jesus on his last walk through Jerusalem with shackles and chains on their feet!

It is an incredibly impressive, but also very oppressive atmosphere to stand amid this row of narrow houses and see these figures pass us in time with the drums!

After the 'penitents' (one even in a wheelchair) pass by, a group of hooded men, armed with iron walking sticks, bearing the throne belonging to the brotherhood, follows our alley! The only sounds heard are the rhythmic thuds of the sticks on the ground, making everything appear even more eerie.

Whoever wants can join this procession, to then allow themselves to undergo the corresponding mass afterward! However, a pained expression seems to be a prerequisite, as none of the participants show even an inkling of a smile.

We, however, take a deep breath and are glad when we have the narrow road to ourselves again.

Because even though the whole march serves solely to honor one’s faith and draw nearer to God, it feels to us like stepping into another medieval world.

A peculiar rite that seems to fit no longer in our times, but on the other hand, shows that faith can provide support when the world cannot (anymore)!

How wise our decision was to make Santiago uncertain long into the night becomes apparent the next day!

ALL processions are canceled due to the continuous and persistent rain.

While we happily reflect on our good fortune from the previous evening, we silently thank the brothers of the 'Confraria de Nuestro Padre Jesūs Flagelado'… whom are probably mostly sick in bed today!

Nonetheless, after a morning round of exercise in the hotel’s fitness center, we head into the city again, observe the pilgrimage spectacle on the main square in front of the cathedral (the official destination of the Camino de Santiago), and are impressed by the huge number of people arriving here from all over the world, grateful that we made it here to kneel and let some tears flow.

However, we quickly notice that our return flight tomorrow comes right on time. Because even here in the tourist center of Galicia, communication poses a high hurdle. Eating out and ordering food is often challenging, there's confusion in shops when asking for the exact price, and the constant mobile translation game eventually becomes simply annoying and exhausting.

So, we go back to the hotel, where we spend the last evening playing games and reading books!

What remains is a short conclusion of the vacation and especially the vacation destination!

We have underestimated Galicia in almost every respect. We did not expect such a varied and fascinating nature. Partly primeval, partly rugged and barren, then again with meadows full of broom. The coastal landscape with beautiful bays and wonderfully climbable rocks, as well as beautiful small to large towns, that offer everything from medieval flair to modern pedestrian zones!

Through our five accommodations, we were able to experience Galicia in various ways, have met people who are wonderfully friendly and helpful, and in Davoud’s case a remarkable dream that we will definitely continue to pursue!

We are grateful for our chosen vacation destination but are also looking forward to our home, family, friends, and everyday life, even though it will probably lead to hair-pulling again after a short time!

In three months, it continues. A wedding invitation in Vietnam awaits us. And rest assured, we will also entertain you all with our stories from there. Whether you like it or not!

In this sense: Happy Easter to you all!