Holy Week - Part 1

Galicia - 15.-16.04.25

With the start of the Spanish Easter holidays, we are relocating again. Our travel route takes us to the north of Galicia, to Viveiro, a small port town at the mouth of the Rio Landro.

The town stretches along both sides of the mouth, up the hillside. A colorful collection of standalone cottages, known for their picturesque, typically Galician glazed wooden balconies. Galicia reveals itself once again from a completely new side, and we are somewhat indifferent about whether we like it or not.

To be honest, after the idyllic artist commune, the bar is set damn high, and the gray, changeable April weather doesn't help improve the mood.

However, we are quite satisfied with our accommodation and look forward to enjoying an Estrella in the village.

According to our landlord Juan Carlos (yup, jackpot with the name betting), EVERY establishment in town is very good and the walk towards the marketplace is definitely worthwhile, as during Holy Week a brass band entertains every evening at 7:00 PM.

Except during rain, as that would cancel the procession with musical accompaniment in honor of our Savior. Somewhere there is a limit even for the most devout believers, which ironically comes from above.

We are curious and armed with umbrellas, we make our way into town. It’s still dry, and usually, carrying umbrellas keeps the downpour at bay quite reliably.

But not today!

Just a few meters in, it starts pouring. So no music for us. Fine, at least a beer then. At only 11 degrees, it's a rather unpleasant pleasure and a clear sign to end this day.

For Tuesday, we had planned to visit Praia das Catedrais. A measly 50-minute drive for spectacular rocks that can only be viewed at low tide. If it’s going to be wet down there anyway, the rain doesn’t bother us. Rain gear on and here we go.

Apparently, 582,412 other people thought so too. The parking lots are crammed full of campers, tour buses, and all sorts of other vehicles. Oh my goodness! But after a 50-minute drive, we don’t want to just turn back. We ignore the bad omen and get swept up in the flow, which is abruptly halted by two ladies in neon yellow safety vests.

We need tickets. For a beach.

Really now?

Yes, but an online registration would suffice. Okay then. So we quickly provide our document numbers (it doesn't matter which, as there’s no verification or anything) and we’re allowed to merge back into the stream of people. Great.

To the sound of a bagpipe, we trudge across the beach in strong winds and (sarcasm off) admire the beautiful rocks. They are indeed impressive and worth the visit. However, the crowds are extremely off-putting and prevent us from lingering longer.

Moreover, due to the tides themselves, it remains a somewhat brief pleasure. At wind speeds of 7-8, the tide can indeed advance quicker than some stooped visitors can walk!

Darwin's selection in another way...

The now seemingly warm sun motivates us to undertake a hike that we had actually planned for the following day.

It goes along the cliffs, through beautiful eucalyptus forests, until we reach a fence with red tape saying the final destination: “something something Parco cerrado temporalmente”

Really now?

The prettiest part of the hike, over wooden walkways and steps along the so-called Pig's Foot Rock, has been closed for over a year due to the risk of collapse.

If this is karma... we are aware of no wrongdoings. Truly not!

Always stay positive; after all, we haven't gotten wet so far.

It doesn’t help, we set off on the return journey with slightly drooping shoulders and long strides. At least we are still on time to quickly grab something to eat in Viveiro and then, with a delicious fish in our stomachs, listen to the aforementioned music.

We thought. We try at six local establishments!

The only thing we gain is the realization that you can really get nothing to eat in Spain before 8:00 PM, except churros, ice cream, and baked goods. Ida is happy about the unexpected pig ear at 6:30 PM. So is her hip. I can already feel my pants tight around the waist.

Armed with vanilla pastries and rum balls, we spend the next half hour in the sun, waiting for the musical performance. And waiting. And waiting. 7:00 PM comes, 7:00 PM goes - nothing happens. This week can’t be that holy, if even in bright sunshine there’s no rambunctiousness. Meanwhile, there are still so many families on the marketplace, all of whom are magically pulling food from their picnic baskets (aha, cheaters!!! The Spaniards themselves can’t hold out until 8:00 PM).

Eventually, we lose our patience. ¡Adios, positivity! Feeling somewhat grumpy, we head home. On the way to the car, we pass by the program board. In big pink letters, it practically screams at us: “daily at 6:00 PM.”

Oh Viveiro, do you know what? You can…

Frustrated by this (albeit first!) truly lousy day, we decide to plan nothing for Wednesday!

In the morning before breakfast, we all have a round of sports waiting for us to both slim the hips and fulfill Ida's training plan!

So, into our running shoes and down to the city beach and back. Quite appropriately for April, Jupiter reveals itself here as a fickle weather god, providing us with sun, storm, and rain. But at least with a complete rainbow as compensation for our wet clothes.

Still, satisfaction prevails due to the physical activity, and the reward of being allowed to have breakfast in the bathtub quickly makes us forget the burning legs of the little red one.

We spend the rest of the day packing and preparing for the last 2 1/2 vacation days in Santiago.

The weather forecast bodes truly nothing good for our conclusion.

If the Holy Week in SdC is just as dependent on rain as it is here in Viveiro, there’s really no point in leaving the hotel!

Either way… we will report back…