

Mosque Casablanca
At eleven o'clock it’s surfing time. Fouad and his crew know me by now; they hand me the wetsuit in my size without me asking. ‘We saw you surfing yesterday,’ says Fouad. ‘You...
Proudly, Fouad tells me about his shop. He owns everything here, and for my surfing days in Sidi Kaouki, he gives me a good price: renting a surfboard and wetsuit for two hours...
“Is that your lunch?” a tourist asks the surf instructor in front of the street shop in Taghazout. The surf instructor: black, sinewy, upper body shines in the sun. In his hand:...
My hike to Toubkal – over 4,000 meters high, the highest mountain in North Africa – starts in Imlil. Here, at 1,600 meters, I want to acclimatize to the altitude. It's still...
Everything half-finished My dragon demands care. The engine warning light has been glowing ominously for days. I learn: Glowing is not yet serious. Blinking would be. Still, it...
Marrakech lies ahead of me. Not far now. A crazy city, many say. I sense it will challenge me again and want to recharge beforehand. Going for a hike one last time. I sneak up a...
Along Oases and Rocks In Tinghir, I want to buy vegetables and spices, then hike in the Todra Gorge. I park. Apparently wrong. A man, presumably a self-appointed park ranger, is...
Camels and Engine Noise Hassan reaches me on his moped before I've taken five steps from the bus, ready to start my first Sahara exploration. "Ah, from Berlin! Do you want to...
Between red sandstone, improvised workshops, and helpfulness My path to Merzouga, to the Sahara, is breathtaking. Once again, it's a canyon landscape like that in the northern...
Between Bread, Garbage, and Monkeys I am in the Medina of Meknes early. By ten o'clock, most shop doors are still closed. The first bread is being baked. I buy a small flatbread...
Lost in the Medina The Medina of Fes has over 9,500 alleys, Joseph explains to me. GPS does not work here. No wonder I get lost. He takes me back to the parking lot. We walk...
Coralie and Faouzi Many people travel to Chefchaouen just for the photos, Coralie shares. Girls in short skirts, dressed lightly, pose on the blue steps of the blue-and-white...
Four countries are behind me. And then: a new continent. And yes – it feels different. For the first time in four years of traveling by bus, I feel out of place. And very...
I have been on the road for seven days. I left while having a cold. I couldn't even moderate the big event that I had prepared for a long time. The drive through France was imp
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