24. Big Island Isaac Hale Beach Park (Pohoiki)

Let's face it: After the intense days on Big Island, we are currently a bit worn out. Our morning routine is taking a bit longer, and we are starting to get going at a snail's pace. But that's the beauty of travel – you can just let yourself drift.
The weather is perfectly adapting to our flexible mood today. It is incredibly changeable: From thick clouds to sudden rain showers to bright sunshine, everything is really on the agenda within a few hours. The temperatures remain typically tropical, mostly hovering between a pleasant 25 and 30 degrees.
This phenomenon is typical for Hawaii, as the islands are world-famous for their extreme microclimates. On Big Island, you can find almost all climate zones of the earth in a tight space – from tropical rainforests to arid deserts to subarctic tundra on the tops of the volcanoes. This is due to the persistent trade winds from the northeast. They hit the mighty flanks of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, rise up, and rain down on the windward east coast (Windward Side) around Hilo. Just a few kilometers further west, in the rain shadow of the mountains (Leeward Side), it mostly stays dry and sunny. Anyone traveling here should pack their swim trunks and rain jacket at the same time!
When we finally manage to get up, a very special program point is on the agenda: a visit to the local fire department. Our first attempt at the main station in Hilo ends in front of a construction site – they are currently busy renovating there. Spontaneously, we head to the Waiakea Fire Station instead. A complete stroke of luck! This station is no ordinary outpost. It houses the rescue helicopter and the specialized rescue team for the entire eastern coast of the island. The atmosphere on-site is incredibly warm. We are welcomed with true Aloha spirit and get a fascinating glimpse behind the scenes of the island's rescuers. An incredibly strong experience that immediately lifts our spirits!
Then we head towards the Puna district. Our destination is the Lava Tree State Monument. The monument is essentially a walkable, petrified natural wonder. An eruption of the Kīlauea in 1790 left behind a bizarre legacy: the boiling hot lava flowed through a dense ʻŌhiʻa forest at that time. It cools rapidly on the moist tree trunks and solidifies while the wood inside burns completely. What remains are meter-high, hollow lava columns that now stand like petrified guardians in the dense, tropical greenery. The nearly 1.1-kilometer loop is perfect for a leisurely stroll. The paved path meanders through the lush, overgrown rainforest. It feels incredibly good to walk at your own pace in the shade of the trees, breathe deeply, and admire the mystical standing formations that are slowly being reclaimed by moss and ferns.
From the Lava Tree Monument, we finally move on to the coast to Isaac Hale Beach Park, better known as Pohoiki. During the drive there, we can hardly believe our eyes: Along the road, we see the immense, solidified lava flows that cut through the landscape like dark, frozen rivers. Seeing these unimaginable dimensions right next to the roadway immediately captivates you. In the devastating volcanic eruption of 2018, the entire coastal village of Kapoho was completely overrun and utterly destroyed by the unstoppable lava masses. The glowing roll finally stops just a tiny 70 meters before the old boat ramp. Where there used to be a rocky coastline, the colliding magma in the icy Pacific creates a brand new natural wonder: a gigantic, deep black sand beach.
The waves tirelessly grind the fresh lava stones into fine sand. We sit down in the pitch-black sand and listen to the deafening, thundering sound of the powerful surf. The current is far too dangerous for swimming in the open sea, but the highlight awaits right behind the new beach: here, warm, geothermal pools are hidden. The groundwater, warmed by the remaining volcanic heat, bubbles into the pools, and we jump right in. A bath in these pleasant thermal springs is pure bliss. A place that impresses us – here we see and feel up close how new life emerges from destruction in Hawaii.
After this relaxing afternoon by the sea, we make our way back to Hilo. Before returning to our accommodation, we stop by a supermarket. We browse through the aisles and buy ingredients for our dinner. In the evening, we pack our things together because our journey is coming to an end.