20. Big Island Captain Cook Monument Trail

Actually, we are taking the day easy, but searching for a parking spot at the trailhead briefly dampens our mood. Everything is full. Luckily, we snag a spot further up the road. As I lace up my hiking shoes, I feel a distinct ache: a slight muscle soreness in my shoulder area reminds me of our marvelous manta ray tour yesterday. Given the heat and the steep return, I am genuinely doubting whether this hike is the right decision today.
Nevertheless, we set off. The path leads us steeply downhill through tall grass and over uneven lava rock. The sun shines mercilessly, and my knees must absorb quite a bit. Each step down reminds me that we will have to climb this entire path back up later. But as the deep blue of Kealakekua Bay flashes between the trees, my doubts slowly fade away.

Upon reaching the bottom, we stand before the bright white monument honoring the British explorer James Cook. Cook was a pioneer of seafaring: On his three major expeditions, he was the first European to map New Zealand and the east coast of Australia, successfully combating the maritime disease scurvy.
It was right here in this bay that his life ended in February 1779. The conflict escalated when the Brits had to unexpectedly return after a storm for repairs, putting a strain on their relationship with the Hawaiians. After the theft of a British skiff, Cook lost his patience and attempted to take Hawaiian chief Kalaniʻōpuʻu hostage. The situation completely escalated on the beach – the enraged crowd defended their chief, and Cook was killed in the shallow water.

The historical setting is impressive, but the real highlight awaits in the water: Snorkeling in the crystal-clear Pacific among colorful fish and intact coral reefs is the perfect refreshment for my tired muscles. The refreshing water feels incredible and gives us new energy for the return journey. Around 14:00, we finally set off and begin the dreaded return. But we are extraordinarily lucky: The sky is turning cloudy. Without the blazing midday sun, the steep, sunless ascent over the lava rock is somewhat more bearable, but it still demands everything from us. The path is extremely taxing on my legs and challenges my already strained muscles.
It is unbelievably exhausting. We have to stop frequently to catch our breath and take several much-needed breaks. Step by step, we fight our way up the incline, while our water supply rapidly diminishes – in the end, it barely suffices. After a torturous two hours of climbing, we reach our car by the road, panting but overjoyed. What an absolutely sweaty, borderline, but unforgettable adventure!
After this exertion, we get into the car, turn on the air conditioning, and head straight to Kona. As a reward for our efforts, we treat ourselves to a huge, ice-cold shave ice – the perfect relief after this strenuous climb. Afterwards, we quickly do some grocery shopping for the next few days.

At our apartment, we enjoy the pool and are happy to use the hot tub. Then it’s back to packing everything up; we’re moving on tomorrow.