22. Big Island - Hawaiʻi-Volcanoes-National Park

As we enter the illuminated tunnel, a pleasant coolness envelops us. Centuries ago, intensely hot, liquid lava flowed through here. The thought that just where we stand, untamed natural forces once rushed by, is impressive. The walls are smooth and testify to the forces of nature.
Once we catch a glimpse of daylight again, the path leads us into a dense, lush green rainforest. Gigantic ancient ferns line the trail while the native birds sing their songs. The contrast couldn't be greater: on one side, the vibrant green, and on the other side, the deep crater that emerges before us.
We start our descent over serpentine paths and stone steps. Step by step, we leave the forest behind until the vegetation suddenly opens up.
Suddenly, we find ourselves in the middle of the Kīlauea Iki crater floor. In 1959, a gigantic lake of molten rock bubbled here, and lava fountains shot hundreds of meters into the air. Today, we walk over a massive, deep black expanse of solidified lava.
The ground is uneven, cracked in many places, and completely silent. It feels like a walk on another planet. We follow the stacked stones that guide us safely across the enormous, wide area.
Upon reaching the other end, a steep ascent back to the crater rim awaits us. Overall, we cover nearly 5.3 kilometers on this loop, gaining about 145 meters in elevation both down and up.
After the hike, we head straight to the Kīlauea Visitor Center. On the way, we notice a fascinating yet somewhat eerie detail: fine dark lava ash accumulates in the rain gutters of the houses. No wonder, as the Kīlauea just erupted a few days ago! You can feel the island's active power at every corner.
Upon arriving at the welcome center, we sit down together and eagerly fill out the forms for the Junior Ranger program. This time, we do it very officially: The kids even take the Junior Ranger oath ceremoniously! A brilliant moment – and another shiny badge for our proud collection.
By now, our stomachs are growling after this eventful morning. For lunch, we've chosen a very special place: the historic Volcano House. While we enjoy our meal, we gaze through the large panoramic windows directly into the vast Halemaʻumaʻu crater. What a backdrop for a well-deserved break!
Rejuvenated, the next highlight awaits us. We leave the crater plateau behind and turn onto the legendary Chain of Craters Road. This scenic road takes us down spectacular serpentine paths over 1000 meters in elevation towards the coast.
Before we reach the coast, we frequently stop at the many lookouts along the way. At viewpoints such as the deep collapse craters of the Puhimau and Pauahi Crater, we truly realize how immense this landscape is. We gaze over vast fields of solidified lava that come from very different decades. The wide views over the deep blue sea in contrast to the jet-black rock are simply breathtaking.
As simply watching from the viewpoints isn't enough for us, we take the opportunities for beautiful, smaller hikes off the road.
Our first big stop takes us all the way down to where the road abruptly ends – mercilessly swallowed by lava from a recent eruption. Here at the rugged Pacific coast, we set out on foot to the gigantic Hōlei Sea Arch. This mighty rock arch proudly rises from the deep blue, wild ocean. The waves crash with incredible force against the black rock.
As the road here is a true dead end, we then start our uphill return. On the way back towards the park entrance, we stop for our second small hike: the Puʻuloa Petroglyphs. The path leads us over a wavy, centuries-old lava field. Upon arrival, we stand before thousands of symbols carved into the rock by the ancient Hawaiians. Seeing how the indigenous people left their stories here is impressive.
Two absolute contrasts in just one day: first, the heart of the volcano on the crater floor, then the spectacular lookouts, the wild coast, and the ancient culture. Eventually, we leave the national park behind and continue on to Hilo. The drive there takes us out of the rugged volcanic landscapes and into the tropically green east coast.
In Hilo, we head straight to our last accommodation of this unforgettable trip: a beautiful, modern apartment that leaves no wishes unfulfilled. After days full of hikes and pure nature, it's incredibly good to put our feet up and enjoy all the amenities – from the perfectly equipped kitchen for a cozy dinner to the comfortable bed. Here, we will fully enjoy the last days of our Hawaii adventure.