5.Stopp: Neuseeland, Part 3: Once Civilization and Back, Please

Oh dear - we're way behind with the blog. The problem is this: if you think the internet situation in Germany is outdated and bad, then you should come to New Zealand. In order to use free WiFi here, you have to go to a city library and hope that it is open and offers unlimited internet access. On campsites, there is almost never free internet, instead you can occasionally buy generous 100MB for $5. In this day and age, that's not even enough to use the internet on your phone, because as soon as the internet is activated, the modern smartphone starts updating and boom, the data is already used up. Actually, it doesn't bother us at all, because we really enjoy the internet-free time and since we are constantly on the move, we don't find it difficult to do without. However, it does make it difficult to stay in touch with family and friends, update the blog, and do simple things like check the weather forecast. So please forgive us if the blog posts are shorter and delayed for now.

But now on to the rest of the journey: Since neither of us had been to the east coast of the North Island, we headed east to Napier. It's strange how in New Zealand you can be standing on an active volcanic field surrounded by steam and fern forest one moment, and on your way to the wine region by the sea the next, driving past dense pine forest and blooming heather. We are always amazed by the diversity that this country has to offer. In Napier and the surrounding area, we were able to feel a bit "fancy" again, as the region is particularly known for its wine production and retro charm. So we spent the days with free wine tastings at wineries, strolling through the 1930s city, and visiting traditional farmers markets. Honestly, we felt a bit out of place here after the many rustic months we spent hiking, camping, and eating noodles with sauce, but it was a really welcome change.

Since Pascal, Natalie's older brother, happened to be working in Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, at the same time, we absolutely had to go to Wellington and meet him. When do you ever meet your brother on the other side of the world and go out for a beer? Besides, it had been almost ½ year since we last saw family and friends, and getting a taste of home again really did us good! So off to Wellington and on the way there, quickly take a photo with the longest place name in the world.

Since you can't camp in Wellington, we found ourselves back in civilization and enjoyed a very cute Airbnb with super nice young owners who were immigrants from England and the USA and had two very friendly cats. What could be better? Nice roommates and pets too. Since Pascal had to work, we spent the day exploring the city, its parks, the amazing Te Papa National Museum, and a visit to the zoo. We especially liked the zoo, as it was built into the surrounding forest and the animals in their enclosures had plenty of space and opportunities to retreat. There was also a night house where we could experience the nocturnal kiwi birds up close. However, the highlight were the red pandas, who were not at all shy for these animals and presented themselves to us while eating and exploring their enclosure.

In the evening, we met Pascal and his wonderful colleague Elena and chatted and exchanged news over beers in a bar, as well as enjoyed each other's company while having a barbecue on the terrace of their accommodation with a view over the city. It was really nice to see a familiar face again and be able to share our experiences with Pascal.

Unfortunately, we had to say goodbye far too soon, as we wanted to visit some places on the North Island before our ferry crossed to the South Island and Pascal had to fly back home.

So we continued our journey full of anticipation for life back in nature, but also feeling a bit sad about the farewell, heading north to the Tongariro National Park. Do you remember that we mentioned the huge carrot, of which no one really understands why it is the symbol of a city? Well, this carrot is in Ohakune, a town at the gates of the national park, and now it even has the company of a carrot race car! Of course, Jan had to try it out.

Surprisingly, however, we didn't go to the Tongariro National Park because of the carrot, but to master a multi-day hike around volcanoes, the Northern Circuit. Unfortunately, the weather with lots of rain, low clouds, and forecasted storms ruined our plans. After several days of bad weather and hardly any visibility of the mountains, we decided to give it a try anyway and at least hike a part of the Northern Circuit to the Tama Lakes as a day hike. Unlike the most famous day hike in all of New Zealand, the Tongariro Crossing, the hike to the Tama Lakes is still a real insider tip.

Why didn't we do the Tongariro Crossing like absolutely everyone else who comes to this national park? Quite simply: 1. Since the Crossing is a one-way hike, you have to take a completely overpriced shuttle that takes you to the start and picks you up from the end. 2. The hike is done by thousands of people every day and has now become more of a queue than a hike. And 3. Since there are photos and descriptions everywhere, we were no longer excited about the hike, but rather felt like we had already done it.

The hike to the Tama Lakes, on the other hand, blew us away. With its 17km, it is comparable in length to the Tongariro Crossing, but it is a loop trail and therefore accessible by car, as it has the same start and end point. You walk through bushland, dense forest, and as a first intermediate destination, you reach the Taranaki Falls, beautiful waterfalls that fall over the edge of a lava field. Then it goes uphill, always with a view of all the surrounding mountains (if the weather plays along), until you reach the crater lakes. At the first viewpoint of the Lower Tama Lake, the volcanoes around us were still shrouded in thick clouds. So we sat down and waited, and as if fate owed us a favor, the clouds cleared and we had a perfect view of Mount Ruapehu and Mount Ngauruhoe (better known as Mount Doom from The Lord of the Rings). With this spectacular backdrop, we made the final ascent to the viewpoint at the Upper Tama Lakes. From here, we could overlook all the crater lakes, mountains, and the beautiful sky with the moon.

Unfortunately, reality caught up with us after that, with all its harshness, as on that day, 50 people lost their lives in a cruel attack in Christchurch. We really don't want to write about such terrible things here, but of course, this tragedy deeply affected us, especially since it happened in a country where you feel so safe and sheltered from all the evils of the world. The fact that such an act can happen in a multicultural, warm, and absolutely peaceful country like New Zealand has occupied us for a long time and unfortunately has shown us that no one can escape the problems of the world. But still: how wonderful it is to see how united and natural the New Zealanders condemn this act and mourn with the victims and their families.

Somehow, the next few days of our journey felt a bit weird, almost as if a small raincloud was constantly hanging over us. Appropriately, Mount Taranaki, our next destination, hid in the clouds and did not come out for the entire time we spent there. Arriving there, we had to make some changes to our plans, as climbing the volcano seemed pointless under these conditions. So we spent the night in "Jurassic Park" (as we called it), a reserve for endangered birds surrounded by high metal fences, and with its entrance gate and unusual birds, it strongly reminds us of the famous movie.

During the day, we went on smaller hikes to the White Cliffs by the sea, the Wilkies Pools, and the Dawson Falls at the top of Mount Taranaki. At the Wilkies Pools, a series of small turquoise pools along a narrow glacier river, we watched a group of teenagers cliff jumping, but decided against joining them because of the icy water. After this somewhat quieter time in the beautiful Taranaki region, we continued to new shores - the South Island of New Zealand. But that's a new chapter.

Song (due to the tragic event): Where is the Love - The Black Eyed Peace