Oh Calcutta! When we arrived in the capital of West Bengal, it was clear to me that there was so much to discover here. There is so much to learn about India, like perhaps no other city. It was also clear that four days would not be enough time. After our flight from Madurai to Kolkata (officially known as Kolkata since 2001), we took a typical yellow Ambassador taxi to our accommodation in the northern district of Shyambazar.
We stayed with a family and were warmly welcomed by Tathagata and Indrani. They gave us great tips for nearby restaurants, sweet shops, and cafes, which we immediately tried out. Since I had made the decision to only eat vegetarian on this trip (which has been successful except for two exceptions), I didn't try any of the typical Bengali dishes. In Kolkata, beef is even sold and offered in some restaurants. I thought it was completely banned in all of India. Now I know that it is regulated from state to state. In some states, you can go to jail for several years for consuming beef. Here in West Bengal, it seems to be allowed. However, the son of our host family told us that a Muslim restaurant in the neighborhood had to close down because the Hindus were not happy with the sale of beef. I prefer not to take any risks and stick to vegetables - better safe than sorry. On our way home, we were stopped because the street we lived on had turned into a cricket field. We stopped for a few seconds and were immediately approached by a friendly teenager who explained that there was a tournament with eight teams going on. We were invited to watch the tournament. It was fun, even though I didn't really understand the rules.
A street turns into a cricket fieldThe tournament organizers wanted a photo with us On the next day (Monday, 5.02.18), we took the metro to the city center. It was very crowded, but everything went smoothly. At this point, I want to mention something that has been on my mind for a while: when I told people about my planned trip to India, I was often asked if I was not afraid. To be honest, I wasn't really afraid, especially since I would be traveling with (male) companions. However, I know that many women here experience terrible things every day, and are often not taken seriously. Many places here are dominated by men, and I am always happy when I am not the only woman, for example at a tea stand or in a restaurant. However, I have never felt uncomfortable or scared, even when Eric was not nearby. Even in the crowded metro, where it is difficult not to touch each other, some people apologized for any unintentional contact. I am grateful that I have not had any bad experiences, maybe I have just been lucky so far. I just wanted to mention this because I was confronted with these concerns before the trip. Now, back to Kolkata: We took the metro to the Maidan, a huge park in the city center, and walked to the Victoria Memorial, one of the many colonial buildings in Kolkata.The Maidan in KolkataCricket is played everywhereThe Victoria Memorial - what a contrast During our walk through the Maidan, I noticed that someone was following us. This person tried to get my attention by jumping, whistling, and singing. Eventually, he approached me and asked the usual questions: where we come from, where we are going, how long we have been in India. This time, the conversation was not as short as it started. Uttam Kumar asked me if we could be friends. When I asked him how we could become friends, he didn't have an answer. When I told him we were going to the Victoria Memorial, he said he was also on his way there, so we went together. Uttam Kumar is 16 years old and lives with his sister, brother, and father. His mother has already passed away. He should actually be in school, but he took the day off. He wants to talk to me to learn English, he said. He reads and listens to English news every day, but finds it very difficult. I can see him thinking before asking or answering a question. He doesn't want to make any mistakes. He says his family is poor, so his big dream is to become rich and be able to travel. He wants to go to England, Germany, Australia, Switzerland, Iceland, and Singapore. He would like to become a Bollywood star to achieve that. Before we say goodbye, Uttam Kumar asks me if we can become friends on Facebook and if I will think of him when I am back in Germany - he can count on it.My friend Uttam Kumar We spent the rest of the day exploring the streets around the Maidan, observing the chaotic hustle and bustle on the streets and around the New Market, and trying delicious food from various street food stalls. Hand-pulled rickshaws are only found in Kolkata First, the Kulfi made me happyFacades with a morbid charm Back in our neighborhood, we went to one of the tea houses recommended by our host. It has been around for 100 years. We also had a pretty interesting encounter there: once again, we were asked which country we were from. In Kolkata, we were always asked about well-known German athletes: Franz Beckenbauer, Steffi Graf, Boris Becker. This time, someone in the cafe started talking to us in German. He is a literary translator and has been to Germany many times, especially Lübeck. When he mentioned this, Eric mentioned Günter Grass, and the man said he had known him personally and had translated his books 'The Tin Drum' and 'Show Your Tongue' into Indian. Once again, I realized how small the world can be, and I am looking forward to the next three days in this exciting city. Unfortunately, one of the delicious treats from the previous day ruined my plans. When I woke up on Tuesday around noon, I felt very weak and had body aches. It got worse throughout the day, and in the evening, I even had a fever. I spent the next two days in bed. Eric went out alone one day and with the son of our hosts, Soham, the other day. Soham offers a tour through waking Kolkata at 5 am. I will share Eric's photos with you: Figures made of straw...... and clay from the river When they are doneThe Howrah Bridge over the Hugli River The flower marketA very old tram from the outside...... and from the inside A heavy transport My first priority was to eat Kulfi Hand-pulled rickshaws are only found in Kolkata I arrived in Darjeeling yesterday, where we were greeted with unfriendly weather - 11°C with wind and no sun feels really cold. Today, at least the sun is shining. We try to keep warm with liters of tea and buy gloves to survive the hiking tour that starts tomorrow. I will report back once we have electricity and internet again.At work
