Nong Khiaw

After a week in Luang Prabang, we continue north to Nong Khiaw. We would have loved to travel up the Mekong and the Nam Ou Rivers by boat. However, the boat trips had to be cancelled after two large dams were built on the Nam Ou for electricity generation. Instead, we and two other guests are driven in an SUV on terrible roads, 125 kilometers in four hours.

During the drive along the Nam Ou, we hear a critically reflective voice for the first time in Laos. Our driver reports that he grew up here. His wife's family lived right by the river until the two dams were built by the Chinese. Their village, along with many others, was relocated, and many people tried in vain to resist. The electricity generated from the river goes to China.

A prominently visible bridge spans the Nam Ou in Nong Khiaw, also built by the Chinese. Although the place lies on a larger main route, traffic is limited. The heavy truck traffic from Thailand and Cambodia through Luang Prabang to China and vice versa, which is largely responsible for the poor condition of the highways, diverts beforehand.

We have booked an excellent accommodation, the Nong Khiaw River Side, a generously sized cabin with a balcony right over the river. The associated river-view restaurant is exceptionally good, with a rich breakfast buffet in the morning. At the entrance, shoes are removed, and since it can get quite cool overnight in December, neatly arranged warm slippers are provided for the guests.

Nong Khiaw is a meeting point mainly for young backpackers, a starting point for one to multi-day trekking tours or rowing and other excursions on the river. We decide that this is not quite for us anymore. We also do not rent a moped; we were warned that the paths around Nong Khiaw are too bumpy. Instead, we enjoy four peaceful days, and we mostly take our evening meals at the River Side.

Our activities are limited to a hike to Phadeng Peak, taking just over four hours for the round trip. We climb together with Bernd, while his wife Anni and daughter Elin stay in Nong Khiaw. We essentially spur each other on for this hike: Bernd probably wouldn't have taken the tour alone - neither would we, as staying put is far too comfortable.