In the Jungle of the Big City
Between splendor and pomp on one side, hustle and struggle for survival on the other: Why I am fascinated by metropolises in Southeast Asia.


Published: 28.04.2026








Chum Mey sits in a shady spot having lunch. It is the 19th. We have visited the former Tuol Sleng schoolhouse in the middle of Phnom Penh, which became infamous as prison S-21 under the communist dictator Pol Pot and his reign of terror from 1975 to 1979. Tiny cells were built into the classrooms; the prisoners were chained to the bare floor. They relieved themselves in canisters and ammunition boxes. As a genocide museum, S-21 is meant to keep the memory of the darkest chapter in Cambodian history alive.
Between 12,000 and 20,000 men, women, and teenagers were detained here, beaten, electrocuted, and subjected to other forms of torture to extract confessions. The interrogations were meticulously documented. When the tortured finally confessed to being CIA agents and agitating against the communist party, and named other
