Ninh Binh

Today we should be taking an organized tour to Ninh Binh to visit the so-called dry Halong Bay and a handful of other sights. Probably due to jet lag and because I hastily sipped on some tea just before going to sleep, I lay wide awake for hours and ended up with a meager three to four hours of sleep. And so the day began with a shock: two missed calls from Tom, our guide for the whole excursion. Had I overslept? Not really, but since I seemed to be running a bit late, Tom personally picked me up on his scooter and took me to the tour bus. Waking up at 6:30 on vacation...
Our first stop was - at least officially - an unscheduled detour to our lovely guide's hometown, where we were taken through a clearance sale of bamboo textiles - a truly delightful coffee trip! After all, at the end of the snake-like display of goods, a long-awaited coffee awaited us! Our travel group consisted less of backpackers and more of older folks and predominantly non-European origins - which was a refreshing change from the often quite bland tourist groups.
Through rice fields and notable karst mountains, we headed to the first official stop of the tour: Hoa Lu, the ancient capital of Vietnam. Here, tourist groups were spewed out in masses, crowding through the ancient temple complex. I found the whole affair quite bothersome and detached myself from the hustle and bustle, exploring the immediate surroundings on my own. Next, we headed to Trang An, where an all-you-can-eat buffet awaited us for lunch and the picturesque area could be explored independently by bike.
After a short bus ride, the highlight of the day came, a boat ride through the impressive landscape of Tam Cốc. With a Japanese travel companion, I boarded the boat, and for the next hour, our captain steered us through rice fields and caves, past flocks of birds, goats, the ubiquitous karst mountains, and numerous other tourist-laden boats. The locals usually rowed with their feet, displaying an impressive nonchalance while puffing on cigarettes and/or talking on the phone.
The last stop of the day was to take us to the mountains of Hang Múa. Unfortunately, the weather was not on our side, and a heavy downpour greeted us upon our arrival. As a true German, I had my North Face jacket handy and wasn't deterred by the pouring rain and wind to climb the 500 steps to the summit of the mountain. You have to be up for it... and I actually was, as some adventure feeling finally set in! Despite the weather, this place was also relentlessly overcrowded with tourists. Nevertheless, the atmosphere was impressively mystical. Upon reaching the summit, the territory was marked as obligatory, making it clear to everyone now who holds dominion over the dragon mountain of Hang Múa...
As a backpacker, I naturally had all my belongings with me, so I was able to put on dry clothes before the bus ride back, allowing me to enjoy a pleasant return journey.
In summary, the journey from one program point to another kept getting better. Such a coffee trip was indeed an interesting experience, but honestly, I don't need to do it again. However, it would have been difficult to accomplish everything experienced within the tight timeframe independently. Rating: Worth doing once.
Upon arriving in Hanoi, I jumped into the first taxi to get to Ga Hà Nội, the main train station of Hanoi. The taxi driver was very interested, and we chatted via Google Translator about everything (Italy vs. Germany 2006 was/is his favorite football match). In the end, he wanted almost 15 euros for the short ride, which is quite steep by Vietnamese standards. I shrugged it off! My worries about time turned out to be unfounded, and I reached the station about an hour before my night train departure south. Before the ride, I absolutely had to get some snacks: a Banh Mi and three beers, please - I'm a simple man...
The train is a true sight, endlessly long, has seen some years, and boasts nice sleeping compartments and very polite staff! Not only are there snacks and cool drinks at reasonable prices, but there also seems to be fresh cuisine, so I was already looking forward to my breakfast Phở! Initially, I was alone in the compartment, but later two Vietnamese travelers joined me. After writing about my travels and enjoying three beers, the day came to an end.