The Balance of Forces (Camino Portugues 3)

With the return to the original pilgrimage path, a realistic stage arrangement should also follow. Daily distances of about 20 km were common. Depending on the terrain and the weather, even up to 25 km were manageable for inexperienced hikers.

On that Sunday, both factors were favorable: a flat route and pleasant sunshine. However, there was a hitch, as the proposed daily stage ended after just 15 km. Additionally, we added an extra kilometer to visit a viewpoint that we had aimed for rather unintentionally.

By around 1 PM, we reached Barcelos, a central town with hostels and infrastructure. The sun was at its zenith, and we took a break for some toasted sandwiches and a refreshing beer. For dessert, we had marshmallow ice cream.

Considering our tight schedule of just five planned hiking days and our previous successes of more than 20 km per day, we decided to add an extra stage in the afternoon. 16 + 10 km was set as the new daily goal.

The path then led us in the afternoon heat through endless commercial areas and suburban settlements, steadily ascending. There was no dining option, except for a closed tavern whose owner showed compassion. She opened up to offer the resting pilgrims fresh drinks.

In the travel guide, we had identified an accommodation in a tiny village, which turned out to be a private hostel with only nine beds. This marked the low point of the day. After ten hours on our feet, worn down by the sun, our packs, and the distance, we found ourselves unable to move forward or backward.

The last hour on the trail was always the most exhausting. Unfortunately, we had stretched the last hour of that day and depleted our reserves. Nevertheless, we had to make a decision.

Ultimately, we decided on a hostel 1.5 km back along the way that we had passed half an hour earlier. With our last strength, we began the return trek and trudged back to Recoletta.

In the middle of nowhere, the Alberguo offered modern standards and a self-checkout the following morning. At the 'Restaurant 2000' across the street, stranded travelers gathered for pilgrim menus and house wine.