Pilgrimage Biotope Portugal (Camino Portugues 4)

With each passing day, the number of fellow hikers sharing the journey northwards grew. While the coastal trail was mainly frequented by Germans, the community in the inland areas was markedly more diverse.

In Recoleta, various types of pilgrims converged. A laid-back Australian, a hiker who came from Santiago to test an alternative route, as well as various couples. We surprisingly often encountered mother-son and similar family combinations, including grandparents with adult grandchildren. Overall, the average age of the pilgrim community in Portugal was quite elevated. Many hikers were frequently over 70.

Large groups were seldom encountered, aside from a guided group of Americans and a contingent of Brazilians.

Cafés and patisseries, taverns and restaurants along the way resembled watering holes in the savannah. There, stock hikers met fitness enthusiasts, couples met best friends, Deuter backpacks mingled with Decathlon gear. A colorful outdoor bustle! Along with that, there were often toasted sandwiches, coffee, and/or beer.

The accommodations also brought together what somehow didn’t seem to fit: a mosaic of cultures. In Recoleta, an elderly guest, equipped with a red headlamp, struggled at night in the dormitory to operate or assemble a device that was supposed to prevent him from snoring. The backpack was taken out and repacked, things fell to the floor, there was cursing and rummaging in the bag again. Other older participants had earlier chatted with young pilgrims over beer and subsequently faced similar difficulties finding their way in the dark dormitory. After a while, there was finally silence.

From Recoleta onward, the hiking community visibly grew, and familiar faces were greeted again and again along the path. The segment on Monday measured around 25 km and provided ample opportunity.

The final destination was the town of Ponte de Lima, a special highlight of the hike. The small town offered variety and medieval charm. The official hostel was located right next to the church with a magnificent view of the bridge and the old town. We spent the evening enjoying wine and regional dishes. It should be noted that some dishes are not without reason 'only' regionally acknowledged.

At night, there was then a particularly special excursion into the world of pilgrims, as the 25-bed dormitory was filled with snoring that would have stood out even in the tropical rainforest among howler monkeys and parrots. Hardly an eye closed, and the next morning we looked into many sheepish faces. Bom Dia!