On Diversions (Camino Portugues 2)

Orientation is part of hiking, just like coffee and beer in the afternoon. Because without a map, without searching for signs and orientation points, a hike would only remain a marching route. On the Camino, everything revolved around the yellow arrow and the shells. Both symbolized the direction and goal of the entire undertaking.

Unfortunately, the coastal hiking trail was somewhat uninspired when it came to the use of markings. Who needed a direction indication when an endless promenade dictated the way? Our guide recommended returning to the original route, about 20 km inland.

The path there turned out to be quite strenuous. Up to Vila de Conde, we enjoyed the wide sandy beaches, dunes, and sea breeze one last time. Then we turned east. Independently of yellow arrows and signposts, we followed a route description that sounded like a suburban nightmare: roundabout, warehouse, shopping center, under a highway, through Tourguinha and Tourghinho, across a villa district, this time over a highway and another 5 km along a busy country road.

More than 20 km and a decent sunburn was the price to return from the sea to the pilgrim's path. The last stretch of the way finally led on the main route through typical hollow ways and eucalyptus groves, past Romanesque churches. The hiking clientele had also changed. Our accommodation in Rates housed about 20 guests, including only two other Germans. The pilgrim hostel was housed in an old building.

We concluded the evening with a pilgrim menu, a bottle of Vino verde, and a chat with a fellow hiker from Denmark.