Kaohsiung in two days is not enough
Two days are not enough for this city by the water. Architecturally rewarding, great food, always a gentle breeze from the sea. Everything can be done with public transport. Here,...


Published: 12.05.2026
On Saturday afternoon, departure to Taitung, heading south, with the outlook for the last good weather for the next two to four days.
The train route runs around the mountain range, along the edge of the southern Hengchun Peninsula, which is the vacation area in Taiwan including Kenting National Park. However, I didn't want to go there, as it is a bit more challenging without a car.
The train route goes through the agriculturally intensive region in the west, crossing over to the narrow coastal strip in the east. First, there are sugar cane plantations for about an hour of travel; I have not seen such plants in fields at all, let alone so many. On the east coast, things change—the subtropical forest of the mountain slopes leaves little room, and the villages look rather shabby.
It is getting dark; gray clouds hang over the Pacific, there are significant waves, and you see a gray gravel shore with no signs of a bathing culture. Where have I ended up?
Then another city bus ride and a short walk to the hostel. The name matches my mood: 'Who knows', run by Mr. Jackson, who had already corresponded very competently with me about booking (check-in time only until 9 PM, tips on the way to walk, and, worst of all, no guarantee for a spot as my credit card was not accepted for the guarantee). No matter, I’ll just go. Jackson's wife seems to be expecting me as I arrive at the glass door at 7:30 PM. There is a bed available, but only for cash payment, as my credit and debit cards also do not work physically. No problem, two days don't cost much; I have enough cash.
Jackson turns out not to be an Anglo-Saxon dropout with a hostel and a Taiwanese wife, but a very well-organized and knowledgeable local, and the hostel is simple and functional. On one of the benches in the 'Common Area' on the ground floor (called the 1st floor here), sits an older Chinese man with crossed legs reading. Nice!
Jackson takes me to the upper floor, where there is exactly one large sleeping room, and I only get an upper bunk, which I prefer anyway. There are 7 bunk beds, meaning 14 sleepers, with 11 already booked. Everything is fine, as there is also a curtain for each sleeping spot, and it is freshly covered, and the mattress is hard. Like in an Alpine hut, which I know, only with bed curtains.
All day, I had eaten very little, so off I go to the nearest hotpot restaurant. Curfew is at 9 PM, as usual, so I am warned at 7:50 that there is little time left. And indeed, this fish and seafood hotpot is something else. There is a special guide in English for how to acquire it, but I don’t even get to read it, as everything is explained and demonstrated to me by the staff and a family across from me. More on that later when I have gathered more hotpot experiences.
The next day, Sunday, I wake up shortly after six as always, have the common area of the hostel to myself, make powdered coffee, and gather brochures together. Taitung turns out to be a chill area, 'to find peace and come to oneself', with surfing and sailing courses, but no beach for swimming. Jackson tells me later that the currents are dangerous.
Then the discovery - the National Museum of Prehistory (Taiwan). It has such positive reviews that I absolutely have to go there, despite it only being accessible on foot from a train stop. This museum day was such an enlightenment, as I wish for everyone. Taiwan is the connection to the Pacific region!
More on that soon. Meanwhile, I am already in Taipei (Taipei, pronounced /Thaibej/) and the last sunny and rain-free day is forecasted. Onwards! It’s 10 AM.