Once to the Lofoten and back

The next stage is upon us – and we are a bit apprehensive for good reasons: the Lofoten. In recent years, they have become the absolute hotspot in Norway and are hopelessly crowded during peak season. We are not particularly fond of this overtourism and often feel ashamed of our fellow countrymen, who clearly make up the majority of visitors here. The closer we get to the Lofoten, the more crowded the roads become – and the larger the motorhomes.
The day alternates between rain, sun, and a lot of wind. Already here, the mountains rise impressively into the sky, and around every curve awaits the next postcard view. Around 5 PM, we reach our camp, which unfortunately does not turn out to be as beautiful as described. The spot next to the excavator at least hints at how stunning the view could actually be. So we cozy up in the van with a book while it rains and set off the next morning right after breakfast.
The next destination is Svolvær, the gateway to the Lofoten. Spontaneously, we get the idea to look for a car repair shop – and we actually end up at a VW dealership. Whether they can do something the same day is unclear, but they are willing to try their best. For us, that means: a relaxed day with a walk to Fisk Arkona, cake and fresh bread from the bakery, as well as a quick round at the souvenir shop.
Then, indeed, the relieving text message: The axle on the van is fixed, and the car is ready for pickup. Yay!
Next awaits a real highlight: our campsite. Though more expensive than usual, it is beautifully located – right by the sea, divided into several areas, and we have nearly an entire section to ourselves, complete with a sea view. Now we just need the Northern Lights.
The next morning we wake up around nine – because it actually gets too warm in the van. The sun is shining, hooray! We didn’t get much sleep anyway: we were awake until half past two, anxious to see the Northern Lights. A brief dance of the Aurora right above us, then the clouds rolled in. Now and then, stars twinkled through, but the Northern Lights kept us waiting.
So we leisurely have breakfast with the sun on our faces and the sea view before heading to Henningsvær. Initially, we wanted to hike to Festvægtind, but already at the hiking parking lot, we see the crowds of motorhomes – and turn back. Instead, we stroll through the small alleys, browse in pretty shops, and ultimately end up at a café by the water with Flat White and delicious food.
Here too, we notice signs reminding tourists of things that should be taken for granted. If it’s this crowded now – what must it be like in peak season? An absolute horror scenario!
We decide to revisit the spot from last night. It was perfect for chasing the Northern Lights, and the forecast promises a lot. Unfortunately, it is already occupied when we come back – but a little further, we find another nice spot. In the afternoon sun, we sit in our rocking chairs by the sea, even watching dolphins pass by – so peaceful!
And this time we have better luck with the Northern Lights: Around 0:30 AM, we finally collapse, frozen, tired, but happy into bed.
With the first rays of sunshine, we head a bit back north. You won’t believe it – but we've changed our plan again. Originally, we wanted to take the ferry to the island of Værøy in the south of the Lofoten and then continue to Røst before heading to Bodø. However, a storm damaged the ferry and the docking station in Moskenes the night before last. So we head to Lødingen and take the ferry back to the mainland where we will soon drive on the famous coastal road FV17. There, we stop at a large bridge from where you get a good view of the Saltstraumen. The Saltstraumen near Bodø is considered the strongest tidal current in the world, where millions of cubic meters of water rush through a narrow strait at speeds of up to 37 km/h, creating huge whirlpools. And we are lucky that there was a full moon last night, and it must be even more impressive than usual.

After a stop at the supermarket, the next adventure awaits to the south. But more on that in the next post.