Aurora Hunter with Sleep Deprivation

Fortunately, after our unsuccessful visit to Tromsø, we are off to a small, enchanting island: Sommerøy. We reach the island via a winding bridge that is controlled by a traffic light and allows one-way traffic. From up there, a wide view opens up over small neighboring islands and lighthouses. The campground we find is only so-so, but since Mehamn, we haven't discovered any real highlights in terms of campgrounds. No matter – we cook ourselves a delicious dinner and then go on a little exploration tour.

Later, as we are already lying in bed, a polar light warning suddenly pops up for me. So it’s time to get into our warm clothes, grab the camera and tripod, and head to the dike. An hour later, it's worth it for Frank to leave the warm bed as well. And indeed – we get to see a few green veils in the sky. The next morning, however, we laugh at the photos of other aurora hunters we see online: We must have gone back to sleep just a few minutes too early, right before the big spectacle.

Today, we have breakfast comfortably in the car at the ferry station before heading over to Senja. As soon as we arrive on the island, we take the winding roads and dark tunnels towards Skaland. There, the Sommardalen plateau awaits us – a section of the path to Husfjellet, the “house mountain.” The view from up there is already impressive enough and perfect for a leisurely afternoon hike.

Back down, we treat ourselves to a well-deserved ice cream from the supermarket and let the evening wind down by the campfire.

We stay here for another day – simply reading, lounging around, and letting our souls float, as well as catching up with friends over the phone.

Aurora Hunters, but Make It Bedtime

Luckily, things turn around as we head to a small but beautiful island: Sommerøy. To reach it, you cross a sweeping bridge that’s one-lane only, controlled by a traffic light. From the top, there’s already a wonderful view of little islands and lighthouses scattered across the water. The campground we find isn’t the best, but since Mehamn we haven’t come across any true gems anyway. No matter – we cook a delicious dinner and head out for a short walk.

Later that night, just as we’re tucked into bed, I get an aurora alert. So we bundle up, grab the camera and tripod, and head to the dike. An hour later, it’s worth it for Frank to crawl out of bed too. And yes – we get to see the northern lights! Only faint green streaks, but still magical. The next morning we laugh when we see photos from other aurora hunters: apparently we went back to bed just minutes before the big show.

Breakfast is a cozy affair in the van at the ferry terminal, before we head across to the island of Senja. From there, we take winding roads and spooky tunnels toward Skaland. Our goal: the Sommardalen plateau – part of the trail up to Husfjellet, the local “house mountain.” Even from there, the views are stunning and just right for a relaxed afternoon hike.

Back down, we treat ourselves to ice cream from the supermarket and later enjoy a campfire to end the day.

We stay another day – simply reading, lazing around, and letting our souls rest.