In Singapore

Who can sleep in Singapore?

Beaten down, jetlagged, overtired, and perhaps just older with age, my wake-up brain played Tom Kristensen's poem about 20s Berlin on repeat the first night in Singapore.

This time, I've chosen a boutique hotel on Hong Kong Street. That means it's across from the river, the financial district, and Chinatown. It was here, in times past, that the swamp was the most foul-smelling, the bandits the most bandit-like, and life the most colorful. Today, Singapore embodies decency, efficiency, and cleanliness. Life makes noise when it's lived - both in celebration and in the heavy, clattering work (empty containers do rumble the best).

Singapore IS in every conceivable way a fantastic city-state. No matter the time of day. Many megacities look their best after sunset, where advertising screens, light chains, and creative illumination create illusions, but those same cities appear somewhat more worn and dirty in daylight. Singapore passes the daytime test with a grade of A.

After the obligatory trek to Gardens By The Bay (where Stine's 5-year-old naturally had to try all the instruments in the music playground), saying hello to the sea lion Merlion, strolling along the Singapore River, and enjoying a ridiculously cheap dinner at Chinatown's street kitchens (here called hawker stands), it was time for the new experience: Victoria Concert Hall and the Halloween organ and light art concert with British-Australian Joseph Nolan and Singaporean Lawrence Koh.

The latter is known for his light art live performances, where he draws on special background screens with a flashlight. It's crucial to stay awake, for after a few minutes, everything is gone and never comes back.

It was definitely a memorable experience - for yes, even in this concert hall, mobile phones must remain off when the music plays (and people who need to cough or unwrap candy are reminded to wait for the more intense passages). How was it again? Did I mention that I love Singapore😁