French Polynesia: Flying over the date line

Can you declension adventure? The journey to French Polynesia is one of the most exotic experiences I've ever had. One of the reasons: I have crossed the date line. A dream of some 40 years has come true, namely to cross the 180-degree meridian.

On Tuesday, November 11, Aircalin's A330-900 neo took off at 12:35 from Nadi, Fiji. Four and a half hours later, it landed the day before, on Monday, November 10, around 18:30 in Papeete, Tahiti. A time difference of 22 hours. I sent a broad smile to “Stine 4th grade.”

First night: a family-run guesthouse a little south of Papeete, 127 steps from the turquoise lagoon. The waves crashed against the protective barrier reef, prompting me to quote Samwise Gamgee from The Lord of the Rings: If he took one more step, it would be the farthest he had ever been from home. Something tells me there are a few more steps from home before I land in 6400 again.

At noon, I took the ferry to Mo’orea, which, like Tahiti, belongs to the Society Islands. Yes, it rhymes with Cook, Bligh, the mutiny on the Bounty, Gauguin, South Sea, girls with flowers in their hair, and cheerful songs on the ukulele. Four nights in a small bungalow on the west side of the island. It’s really nice to cook for myself a bit and shop at small shops and large supermarkets (I love that sort of thing). By the way, the week's great deal at the latter place was a jar of Nutella for 1295 francs, about 81 kroner.

The rainy season has just begun. Every night, the rain has hammered hard, vertically, and persistently on the house's tin roof. Something tells me that Danish standards for downpours have been exceeded several times. When the rain stops, the crashing of the waves against the barrier reef sounds like a constantly running freight train in the distance. It is the sound of protection against the elements. so I sleep as soundly as a baby.

I have started and ended my days by “turning the outer speedboat,” as I call my swims in the lagoon. I have rented a small car and gone exploring on the island. Hiked where it was possible since the rain has turned all the trails into slippery mud. Visited the museum of life in the sea. And visited Coral Gardeners, an impressive reef restoration program aimed at growing and planting corals in an attempt to save the coral reefs. We snorkeled over the fields with the small, new coral pieces and were allowed to “help” by brushing coral and untangling from algae. It required a bit of free diving, which I still have yet to learn. But I did manage to get down and scrub away like a possessed hausfrau. Never has cleaning felt THIS fun!

Tomorrow, the journey goes back to Tahiti and from there on to the Tuamotu Archipelago, where I will dive in the world's two largest atolls, Fakarava and Rangiroa.