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Heading towards Vadu Crişului through Funghiu

Published: 09.08.2017

I have planned to continue my journey on Saturday (05.08.2017). However, I start the day with a hearty brunch. The temperature has already reached 30°C and I take breaks from packing to take a dip in the pool. By half past two in the afternoon, I can no longer delay my departure and we set off again. We pass through the old town of Oradea and reach Cetadea, where Rango takes his first short break and I take a closer look at the building. Afterwards, I restock our food supplies at the nearest supermarket and we continue east along Strada Făcliei. By half past five and after walking about 7 kilometers, Rango forces me to take a break. The heat is taking a toll on him and he can barely keep up. The last few kilometers along the heated road also offer little shade. We take an hour-long break under a plum tree. While I eat my fill of the fruits, Rango drinks almost all of our water, about 2 liters. Fortunately, it gets slightly cloudy after an hour and Rango adjusts to the temperature, so we can continue. Originally, I had decided to cross the Crişul Repede at the next opportunity, walk back to Oradea East Station, and take a train to Bratca from there. However, a kilometer-long fence ruins my plan, so we continue along the road to the east. In Podgoria, I can refill my water bottles upon asking a resident; I have not seen any public drinking water in Romania so far. Around 8:00 pm, I set up our camp at Funghiu by the wild Kreisch. I have a brief chat with a local, who eventually gives me a honeydew melon and two nectarines. After setting up the tent and while I am packing, a shepherd drives his flock of sheep and goats across the river, very close to us. Rango is visibly uncomfortable with the situation and retreats to the tent - coward!

The next morning, I open my eyes and find ourselves surrounded by animals again. Being a shepherd seems to be a job for early risers - it is just after 6:00 am. Shortly after, the first Romanians arrive to spend the day at the river. They fish, swim, grill, and drink. I strike up a conversation with an older couple and they invite me to have bread with crispy bacon, vegetables, potatoes, and freshly caught fish. I contribute some honeydew melon to the meal and Rango gets his share too. By noon, I have packed our stuff and can set off to Oşorhei, where the next train station is located. The mere 3 kilometers to the station take a toll on Rango again; further hiking along the Crişul Repede would not have been possible. The hoped-for train (1:55 pm) does not arrive, so I decide to refill our water reserves in the village. The first woman I talk to across her garden fence is happy to help me. Back at the cool station with Rango, we wait together for the next train, which departs shortly after 3:30 pm. About 20 kilometers before the actual destination, the train stops - we are just before Vadu Crişului. After waiting for almost an hour, I decide to get off and continue on foot. The map shows several caves near the village along the possible route. We pass through Vadu Crişului and shortly after the train station, we meet Maria and Marco from Kaiserslautern. Once again, it is Rango who somewhat inelegantly makes contact. The two are traveling with their 15-month-old dog Alma, whom Rango approaches in his usual uncharming way. They accompany me for a while, want to show me a karst cave suitable for overnight stays, and then continue their journey. There have been heavy thunderstorms in the area recently, with broken branches and fallen trees everywhere, and occasional cracking sounds can still be heard. We arrive at Peştera Caprei and the two decide not to go any further and keep me company in the evening. So we spend a few relaxed hours by the campfire and end the day together.

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