Published: 23.11.2025
After the first night in the 'horror hostel' (spoiler: it didn't get better), I urgently needed some distance today. The plan: Leave the car in Leknes and enjoy the day stress-free.
I drove only a short distance to Leknes, parked the small car, and switched to the public bus. What a relief! After over a week behind the wheel, I could finally relax and look out the window without having to watch for reindeer, cyclists, or oncoming traffic. The unexpected highlight of the trip: The underwater tunnels. The bus driver turned off the lights in the passenger compartment. As we drove deep beneath the sea, it became pitch black. For the first time since the start of the journey, I was enveloped in complete darkness. In a country where the sun doesn’t set right now, this moment of blackness was pure relaxation for the eyes and the mind.
Upon arriving in Reine, the most famous challenge of the Lofoten awaited me: The Reinebringen. It leads up a seemingly endless stone staircase. Sounds doable? Not a chance.
The effort: It was definitely the hardest thing I've done on the entire trip so far.
The heat: The sun was mercilessly blazing from the clear sky, and there is no shade up there. The unusually high temperatures turned the ascent into a sweat-inducing torture.
The reward: Once at the top, you understand why you put yourself through it. The view of Reine, the fjords, and the jagged mountains is the photographic motif of Norway. Simply phenomenal – even if you have to share it with many others.
Back down (with trembling legs), Reine had an encore that I didn't expect. Looking at the water, I saw whales! Right here in the bay. A magical moment that instantly made me forget the hardships of the ascent.
In the evening, I took the bus back to the car and then to the hostel in Ballstad. 'A reservation is a reservation,' I told myself. I will stay strong and stick it out for the three nights – even though the stuffy air in the dormitory is doubly hard after the fresh sea breeze. But hey, anyone who has seen whales can overlook mold in the kitchen. (Maybe.)
Day's conclusion:
Move of the day: Taking the bus & enjoying tunnel darkness.
Sport: Reinebringen = sweat, pain & insane viewpoint.
Wildlife: Whales in Reine!
Weather: Too warm for steep mountains, but perfect for the views.
Status: Hostel endurance: 100%.
