From the Guanacaste volcanic chain to the Pacific coast

11/13/2026 Bridge at the Rio Tarcoles and Playa Hermosa

This morning we take it easy and are exceptionally the last ones at breakfast at 8:30 AM. Unfortunately, we have to say goodbye to the paradise-like Rinconcito Lodge. We continue to the Pacific coast to Playa Hermosa near Jaco. I really enjoyed my time here, a tranquil spot with beautiful sunsets accompanied by music by the pool, great vegetation, delicious breakfast and dinner, and very friendly, helpful staff.

The short driveway from the road to the lodge is probably the worst gravel road I have ever driven on.

Once more we have to drive the route towards Bagaces, including the seemingly never-ending gravel road along the wind turbines, but this time I perceive it as a slow down, and with the song by Herbert Grönemeyer, there's almost a moment of 'serendipity.' Anyway, I enjoy the slowness and the panorama this time.

From Bagaces, we go along Route 1 at a rather brisk pace. We are already familiar with this stretch of highway. However, anyone who thinks that the fast driving will continue all the way to the Pacific coast is mistaken. From Cañas, we realize what it means to be on Costa Rica's most important north-south thoroughfare. The stretch that runs here as Carretera Interamericana Norte and part of the famous Panamericana currently resembles an endless sandbox construction site due to a massive expansion project. Instead of progressing quickly, we are constantly slowed down by dust clouds, gravel roads, and creative route directions due to construction works, crawling along at a comfortable speed of ten to a maximum of thirty kilometers per hour. At least we have enough time to wave cheerfully at each pothole until eventually everything grinds to a halt, as the huge trucks sometimes are unable to handle the route. At least it gives me the perfect opportunity to continue practicing my earlier slow down. The fresh sea breeze in Brasilito finally frees us from the slow crawl, and we pick up speed again.

After a somewhat adventurous detour through the mountainous nowhere - I mistakenly entered the wrong bridge over the Rio Tarcoles - we finally find the 'Crocodile Bridge' over the Rio Tarcoles. Normally, dozens of huge American crocodiles bask in the muddy riverbed, as the river hosts one of the largest populations of these reptiles that can grow up to four meters long. However, during our visit, the ancient giants seem to be a bit shy, as only three specimens lounge in the sun on the sandbanks, with another three barely visible in the river. Despite the limited sighting, it is impressive to watch the colossi lounging about from a safe height. We had parked the car during our visit in front of the large souvenir shop at the Skywalk for a small fee of 1000 colones. The Skywalk itself is free, but the best view is from the bridge.

Next, we continue on Ruta 34, the so-called Costanera Sur, which leads as the main coastal road south to Jaco.

Jaco is one of the most lively coastal towns on Costa Rica's Central Pacific Coast. Thanks to the good access via Ruta 34 and its proximity to San José, the town, with its four-kilometer-long dark sandy beach and bustling main street, is considered a true hotspot for surfers and night owls. For me, Jacó holds a special significance as it is where I received my marriage proposal in 2001.

We only stop briefly in Jaco to withdraw cash and then continue to Playa Hermosa, which translates simply to 'beautiful beach.'

Just a few minutes south of the bustling Jacó stretches this approximately ten-kilometer-long dark volcanic beach in a noticeably quieter and more natural atmosphere. Due to its powerful and consistent waves, it is considered one of the best surf spots in Costa Rica. A large part of the coastline is also protected as a national wildlife reserve, as sea turtles regularly come ashore to lay their eggs between July and December.

Right on the black volcanic sand of Playa Hermosa lies our accommodation, the Fuego del Sol Beachfront Hotel. This small, family-run establishment features a well-kept pool in a tropical garden, an open beach restaurant overlooking the Pacific, and a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere. Unfortunately, the ocean here is not suitable for swimming due to strong currents and high surfing waves, but we settle into a hammock or a lounge chair and enjoy the breathtaking sunset with a margarita. Pura Vida.

Dinner at the hotel’s beachfront restaurant is one of the tastiest meals I've had here in Costa Rica. My sea bream in a creamy fantastic sauce with vegetables and rice is simply amazing. Also, my friend's tacos taste excellent.