12. Underground Rieti
Rieti is said to be the navel of Italy, and therefore exactly in the geographical center, according to the Rietini. As proof, there is a roundel and a plaque in 18 languages at...


Published: 27.04.2025




With a heavy heart, I have ended my pilgrimage today. There are two reasons for this: two days ago, while traveling in the forest, one and a half kilometers from the nearest settlement, I was caught in a severe thunderstorm with simultaneous lightning and thunder. I thought to myself that I cannot expose myself to such a situation again. That same evening, my phone screen froze and nothing worked anymore. It took three hours before the phone could be restarted. Something like this had already been hinted at days ago. Now thunderstorms are forecasted for the next three days. I have changed my plan and searched for an alternative place where I can 'survive' offline: where can I navigate on my own? Where can I find inexpensive accommodation without having to search for a new place every day? (This has become particularly difficult in the area around Rome since the Pope's death.) Where do I have good infrastructure?
The choice has fallen on Civitavecchia, a city west of Rome. It is a place I felt compelled to go to after my arrival... at first glance.
Upon a second glance, there are indeed intriguing destinations in the third row. Tomorrow, I will hike to Tofa. The location lies within the Monte della Tolfa nature reserve, one of the most remote areas of Lazio. I am looking forward to the surprise.
